Jasper and Environs

I decided to go into Jasper today with the toad, much like I did when I visited Banff. There was a museum exhibit I did not want to miss, not believing my good fortune at being here in time for it, and I also wanted to check out some of the surrounding area. It made better sense to do that with the smaller vehicle with good gas mileage! This is going to be rather a long post, but I don’t feel that the individual items deserve their own posts. I’ve interspersed some photos into the text, but do check out the gallery in its entirety for more details.

Jasper townsite is about 75km from Hinton, nearly an hour away. It was almost noon when I pulled up to the park gates. I was asked if I was stopping in the park (no pass is required if you drive straight through) and, if so, for how many days. I replied that I would be going in and out today and would be going through tomorrow. I don’t know if it was the lateness of the hour or what, but I was given a pass that’s good till 4PM tomorrow for the daily rate!

en route to Jasper townsite

Like Banff, Jasper is located within a national park. Unlike Banff, Jasper has an industry outside of tourism so it has a stable economic base that does not fluctuate with the seasons. My impression of Jasper is that it is a more humble version of the ritzy tourist town (think Banff, Aspen, Whistler…). It’s a bit grittier than I would have expected, store and gas prices are reasonable, and homes tend to be modest… even though a tiny bungalow costs a half million dollars!

downtown Jasper

The town is small and doable on foot, so I just parked at the entrance and did a sort of figure eight through the streets, taking in the major landmarks. I noted that there is well-marked RV parking in town.

Jasper Library

I was eager to get to the museum to see the exhibit about the explorer David Thompson.

Jasper museum

Thompson is an explorer who charted most of the continent in the early 19th century. His maps are legendary. He was a man who understood that he was witnessing sweeping changes to the British North American regime and the birth of a nation. He was the one who charted a usable route through the Rockies, securing what is now British Columbia, a land the Americans were eying. Thompson’s explorations united eastern and western Canada and helped shaped the nation that was born on July 1, 1867. Like many great men, he died penniless and insignificant. A sad end to a remarkable story.

excerpt from Thompson’s diary

The Jasper museum is excellent! It charts the history of the park and the townsite from prehistory to today. Like many towns, Jasper’s heyday ended with the demise of the railroad era. Today, the Jasper Lodge attractions the wealthy and famous sort of folk that were the original visitors to Jasper until reliable roads made the area and townsite more accessible. It was around the 1950’s that the idea came to charge people an entrance fee into the park.

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

After getting my fill of the museum, I grabbed some lunch and then headed out of town to travel the Maligne Lake Road.

Jasper train yard

This road leads to the swanky Jasper Lodge, as well as several geographic landmarks of interest: Maligne Ravine, Medicine Lake, and Maligne Lake. Maligne comes from old French that means ‘wicked’, thus named by a man of the cloth who had a difficult time making a portage.

Maligne Valley

Maligne Ravine was my favourite outdoor part of the day. The sinuous, claustrophobic channel with its thunderous waterfalls and turquoise pools filled me with wonder. I practically hung off the side of the bridges to try to get a sense of the sheer drop with my camera, but I don’t think I really captured it. The view was such that I didn’t even think about the height factor. I just wanted to take it all in!

Maligne Ravine

Next stop was Medicine Lake, so called by the local natives because they felt the lake contained medicine, or magic. This lake looks like a lake in the summer, but drains in the fall, leaving only shallow pools! The mystery has been explained, but it’s still quite a sight to behold!

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Shortly after Medicine Lake, I encountered a pair of moose:

The final stop of the day was Maligne Lake, considered one of the most beautiful in Canada. It was worth the nearly one hour drive from Jasper townsite!

Maligne Lake

I did pop over to the Jasper Lodge on the way back, but I was most certainly not dressed to be walking around a posh property inconspicuously, so I was a bit shy and only got a shot of it from a distance:

Jasper Lodge

Coming home, I finally had a wildlife sighting I’ve been eager for. I’ve seen deer, caribou, moose, bison, foxes, wolves, bears, and more, but I’ve never seen a wild sheep before! Thank you construction for slowing down traffic!

sheep

I ended the day by popping into Hinton to scope out the best gas station at which to fuel up Miranda tomorrow (the Shell on the north side) and to get some groceries (VERY nice IGA!).

When I got home, I hooked up the water and sewer hoses after filling the fresh water tank. I dumped the holding tanks and will put away everything once I’ve had a long shower tonight. The car is already hooked up, so there won’t be too much to do to get ready tomorrow. I’ll have a lot of ground to cover and many things to see, so I don’t want to waste too much time puttering around here.

Finally, here is a shot of the campground:

Hinton/Jasper KOA

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

I'd love to bank here!

I’d love to bank here!

Nearly freezing out, with snow on the ground, and they're mowing the lawn!

Nearly freezing out, with snow on the ground, and they’re mowing the lawn!

Jasper Visitors' Centre

Jasper Visitors’ Centre

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

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Jasper Library

Jasper Library

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playground with a view

playground with a view

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Jasper museum

Jasper museum

banner promoting the Thompson exhibit

banner promoting the Thompson exhibit

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gate into Jasper, circa 1950

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

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David Thompson

David Thompson

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excerpt from Thompson's diary

excerpt from Thompson’s diary

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painting of Thompson portaging in the Kootenays

painting of Thompson portaging in the Kootenays

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Jasper train yard

Jasper train yard

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Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

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Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

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Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

teahouse at the Maligne Ravine

teahouse at the Maligne Ravine

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

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Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

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moose

moose

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Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

sheep

sheep

Hinton/Jasper KOA

Hinton/Jasper KOA

Miranda at the Hinton/Jasper KOA

Miranda at the Hinton/Jasper KOA

No Need to Dawdle

The internet in Whitehorse is pretty bad, so I had a frustrating night there trying to get work done and ended up going to bed way too late. I needed to be out of my spot by 11 Thursday morning and still had errands to do, so the morning was pretty painful. I managed to get to two stores and then lost time back tracking to Canadian Tire to get my debit card. It’s the new kind with a pin number and I’m not used to not getting my card back immediately after it’s slid through the card reader. It was therefore much too late to get groceries and beer. I decided that I could get some beer in Watson Lake and that I didn’t need to ‘stock up’ on groceries since I’m heading back into civilization anyway.

So, I pulled out of Whitehorse at 11 and headed straight for Nugget City. I stopped in Teslin for lunch fixings and a nice picnic since I’d been given a ton of veggies before pulling out of Dawson. Teslin is still the prettiest spot in the Yukon in my mind!

Teslin Lake

Sometime after Teslin I started to get quite sleepy, so I pulled over for a leg stretch at George’s Gorge:

George’s (Gorgeous) Gorge

The ride from Whitehorse to Nugget City is one of my favourites; the road is in good shape and you can actually enjoy the scenery. It’s not a technical drive at all, so I was still reasonably coherent when I pulled into Nugget City. It’s a good thing for that since my friend Amber threw herself into my arms the second I stepped out of the rig! We haven’t seen each other since May of ’09!

Forget setting up beyond plugging in the rig; I was quickly spirited away to the lake where a pair of trumpeter swans were swimming.

The male got spooked by a beaver and took off to make sure everything was good.

beaver coming up for air

After two days of hard driving, it was great to get off my butt and get some exercise in fresh air! By the time we got back to the main part of the property, I was famished, so I headed to the restaurant and grabbed a beer after putting in an order for a chicken stir fry .

Amber works late hours so she came back to see the cats on her break around ten, then showed me the digs she’s had all summer. It’s a fifth wheel, the second one I’ve visited this summer, and I have to say I really like the way they are split into several levels…

Since there’s no cell service at Nugget City, I couldn’t get online, so I went to bed at a much more reasonable hour and slept well. This morning I had time to eat breakfast before Amber scared the living daylights out of me by sticking her face up against my back window and then rocking the rig so I’d noticed her. I just about hit the ceiling! She helped me pack up, we did the round of good-byes, and then she became the first ever passenger I’ve carried in this rig, traveling with me from the RV park to the restaurant.

I pulled out of Nugget City around 11 and drove to Watson Lake. After getting gas, groceries (including the black bread and gyoza I can only find here), and enough Yukon Brewery beer to get me through to next spring, I’m now parked downtown and plan to do at least an hour’s worth of work. I’ll then meander down to Liard hot springs, then I will have a couple of overnight options. I’d really rather not go much further than Liard tonight since I’m beat. I need to start boondocking; I’d forgotten how expensive it is to stay several nights in a row at an RV park!

And, so, another summer in the Yukon draws to a close…

Down By the Creek With Oz

I haven’t spent nearly enough time with Oz this summer, but his owner’s and my schedule are at odds. So, when I found out that he was being left on the property tonight, I eagerly leashed him up and took him down to Bonanza creek.

into Mosquitoland

into Mosquitoland

hunting

hunting

hunting

hunting

hunting

hunting

hunting

hunting

Not too sure about getting his feet wet...

Not too sure about getting his feet wet…

Oz leapt from the shore to the gravel bank! I thought he liked water!

Oz leapt from the shore to the gravel bank! I thought he liked water!

Oz trying to decide if he wants to get his feet wet or not

Oz trying to decide if he wants to get his feet wet or not

looking up stream

looking up stream

Trying to pick out the path up. The Golden Staircase wasn't this scary! :)

Trying to pick out the path up. The Golden Staircase wasn’t this scary! 🙂

Improvements to the 9th Ave and Lookout Trails

The Dawson parks and recreation folks have been busy making wonderful improvements to the 9th Ave and Lookout Trails. I borrowed Oz this afternoon and set off for the Lookout to see what was the same and what was different.

Oz all gussied up in his new harness

Oz all gussied up in his new harness

these stairs lead up from the ninth ave trail to Mary McLeod Road, a vast improvement over a slippery almost vertical slope!

these stairs lead up from the ninth ave trail to Mary McLeod Road, a vast improvement over a slippery almost vertical slope!

the trailhead for the Lookout Trail used to be very hard to locate, but now there's no mistaking it

the trailhead for the Lookout Trail used to be very hard to locate, but now there’s no mistaking it

looking down the Yukon River towards Alaska

looking down the Yukon River towards Alaska

Dawson from the Lookout

Dawson from the Lookout

ferry and Top of the World Highway from the Lookout

ferry and Top of the World Highway from the Lookout

There are three changes to the Lookout Trail:

1) the trailhead is now clearly marked and easy to find;

2) the Ninth Ave trail follows the Lookout Trail for a spell and then branches off to the left; I’ll need to come back to see how far it goes;

3) the Lookout Trail is slowly being extended up towards the Slide. There was a bit of a trail last year, but now it is obviously being turned into a proper, maintained, trail.

Good job, parks and rec!

Oz was great; curious but not to the point of tugging at his leash and willing to match my pace. I love our dates! 😀

Hiking Near Ucluelet

I checked out of the hostel this morning and headed to nearby Ucluelet to hike the Wild Pacific Trail. Here’s a map that shows the Tofino and Ucluelet peninsulas well, including some of the hiking stops I made on my trip:

http://www.tofinotime.com/maps/tofino-map-long-beach-ucluelet.gif

There was nothing else to do in Ucluelet, and this was confirmed by the visitors’ centre. The detour wasn’t a waste of time, however, seeing as the Wild Pacific Trail was one of the most beautiful trails I have ever seen! It takes you through rain forest and along the water front, past gorgeous beaches and rocky shore. The contrasts in landscapes were inspiring.

The trail is an easy 2.5km loop that I think could be considered ‘accessible’ as it is entirely on a gravel path. There are some steep uphill and downhill sections, but I’d consider the trail a ‘stroll’ rather than a ‘hike.’

I headed home around noon and pulled in around 3, driving straight through. It’s been a great weekend!

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Remains of a plank road; people actually drove vehicles on these!

Remains of a plank road; people actually drove vehicles on these!

Remains of a plank road; people actually drove vehicles on these!

Remains of a plank road; people actually drove vehicles on these!

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The 'Graveyard of the Pacific'

The ‘Graveyard of the Pacific’

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What's with the gate when...

What’s with the gate when…

anyone could just walk through the big hole?

anyone could just walk through the big hole?

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this has got to be the most gorgeous beach I have ever seen!

this has got to be the most gorgeous beach I have ever seen!

more remains of a plank road

more remains of a plank road

my car next to a palm tree :)

my car next to a palm tree 🙂

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The tiny Ucluelet Aquarium (opening for the summer season on March 6)

The tiny Ucluelet Aquarium (opening for the summer season on March 6)

Overkill computer system for guests to check their email at the Ucluelet Visitors' Centre.

Overkill computer system for guests to check their email at the Ucluelet Visitors’ Centre.