Saskatoon

I wish I had time to share all the pictures I took of Saskatoon, but I have to be out of this site by 11! šŸ™ Every other place I’ve stayed, checkout has been a much more civilized 12 o’clock.

At any rate, let me take you back to Regina one last time, to the set of ‘Laundry Day On the Prairie’.

Even though I haven’t blogged about it since I bought it, I’ve been using and absolutely adore my Wonderwash. I use it to keep on top of the cleaning of small items like dish cloths. The machine cleans things beautifully. I should have taken a before and after picture of one of the cloths I cleaned; it was so filthy after washing a BBQ grill that I thought it would have to become a rag. My Wonderwash got it back to brilliant white! At any rate, I woke up Thursday to discover that Ms. Tabitha had been sick all over the bed. Yay. Not. I decided to wash the sheets in the Wonderwash. This was not as tedious an endeavour as one might imagine even though it took about an hour. The sun was shining so hard that I barely had to wring anything out; within an hour everything was bone dry.

The owners came by at one point because someone had told them that a tenant had strung a clothesline, an apparent no no. They laughed when they saw I’d strung the line from one of Miranda’s mirrors to a utility pole. That was fine; the no no is to string a heavy line between their precious tiny poplars. I can’t believe that I can believe that some idiots would have done that. Me, I’m good at improvising. šŸ™‚

Croft will be happy to see a white hose in this picture. I had to use my green hose for black tank related matters back in Manitoba, so since I needed a new hose anyway, I made it a point to look for a white one. I hate it, it leaks at the connection where it screws to the tap and Canadian Tire won’t take it back. I’ll have to fix it next time I stop; thankfully I have the parts to do that.

So, Saskatoon. I’m going to have to move here since it hosts my dream home!

I decided that the only thing I absolutely had to do in Saskatoon was the Western Development Museum’s ‘1910 Boomtown’.

It’s fantastic!!! The museum is a recreation of a street in a circa 1910 Saskatchewan town.

You can go into each building and see a typical commerce, service, or home from the period.

That took up the entire morning. As I was coming out, the lady at the admissions counter ‘had’ to introduce me to her other colleague as ‘the gal RVing across Canada with her two cats.’ Without prompting, she then told me I had to visit the University of Saskatchewan campus and pulled out a map showing me a walking route I could take. That sounded fantastic. I needed the exercise and I wasn’t in the mood for more museums.

The walk was quite long, about 7.5km, if I reckon correctly, and was breathtaking. I started at the Saskatoon Weir (dam) and climbed up to the CPR Bridge.

I discovered here that there is no way I am ever going to be able to make it up the Eiffel tower. The stairs are metal mesh that you can see through. I barely made it to the top, and that’s because I finally had the smarts to close my eyes. The view from the top was breathtaking, but I couldn’t get off that bridge fast enough. If a train had come by as I crossed, as one did an hour later when I was safely on the ground, a rescue crew would have been needed to get me moving again!

Once I got across to the U of S campus, the daring bridge crossing was all worth it. I got some fantastic shots of Saskatoon.

It was past lunchtime when I got back to my car, so I decided to head to the ‘trendy’ Broad Street area to scope out a place for a nice lunch, which I found at the Broad Street diner, where they have some amazing fries. Just off Broad Street I found a used bookstore with an owner who is quiiiiiite the character. He talked my ear off about how people today, especially politicians, know nothing about our history. I’d picked up a book on ancient Egypt and he told me I could have it free if I bought the autobiography of Nellie McClung, a suffragette, which he had seen me pick up (and put back down because it was pricey). I hesitated just long enough for him to offer me an even better deal, so I walked out with both books. In my defense, there were so many books on my ‘wish list’ in that store that if I was still living in a real house I could have easily bought a couple dozen!!!

Since I still have that nasty cold (better today, thank you), I was pretty exhausted by this point, so I went home to do laundry and come up with something fun to do in the evening.

The Saskatchewan activities guide mentioned boat tours, but that these tours stop on Labour Day weekend. That said, I’d found the launch for these tours on my walk and a sign there seemed to indicate that there would be a tour at 7PM. A quick phone call confirmed that, so off I went after dinner for a 1 hour cruise up and down the Saskatchewan River. It wasn’t a particularly good cruise in that we had to get any information we wanted from a brochure that was given to us. The brochure was great, but it’s hard to read and look at the scenery at the same time! That said, it was a lovely hour on the water and the weather was mild. Unfortunately, my pictures didn’t turn out.

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I have to be off within the next hour. I’m Alberta bound! Tonight’s destination: the Walmart in Lloydminster, a border city of which one part lies in Alberta and the other in Saskatchewan! Tomorrow, I’ll get to Edmonton.

Hiking Around Kyleakin

 

I’m literally out in the middle of nowhere!!! My only guide back to ā€˜civilization’ through this boggy heather moor is a meandering burn. I could keep going for ever, but there were no maps available and I don’t want to get too lostĀ ! I guess that if I continue to follow the burn I’ll be fine, though. It took me a full two hours to get here. Luckily, home (not so creepy after all, amazing what a ½ pint of Guiness can do!) is downhill all the way!

I saw two deer running through the glen!!!

1:42 pm

I’m back at creepy city. It’s raining and rain is becoming a natural (and daily) part of life. All morning, it was pitter-pattering, so I just wore my funky blue hat. At one point, I went to put it on and realised I’d dropped it somewhere out on the moorĀ ! Luckily, I was able to sort of retrace my steps and find it. I must admit that this area isn’t too bonnie.

Tomorrow, most things should be open, so I’d like to take a bus into the more remote parts of the island. The oddest thing is we’re right on the shore of the Atlantic, real sea, but we can’t smell it. In a way, I guess that’s a good thing. The wonderful aroma of dried seaweed, dead and living fish, and salt water makes me nostalgic and restless.

There are inexpensive cruises advertised. That might be fun. It’s unbelievable that a little place like this, at the edge of the world (or so it seems) has the most expensive toll bridge in the world. We’re talking Ā£5.60 for a car, Ā£40 for a bus, and a whole range of other ridiculous tolls for every type of motor vehicle imaginable! Let’s just say that peeved the locals off just a little; they didn’t get any concessions until only a little while back. When the ferry ran, the locals could cross free. Now, they have to pay a toll—both ways. Blech. I can just imagine them loading themselves into cars, really cramming themselves in, in order to go grocery shopping, splitting the toll amongst each other!

Looks like the weather’s clearing up a tad. I think I’ll read a chapter and go back out for a stroll. Not that there’s much strolling to do here! I must admit it’s a quaint little town, if a smidge dead. I guess that it’s because the fishermen have to be up at 5… A.M. Yuck!

7:15 pm.

What a stroll! I meant to go back up to the castle but I got slightly, um, distracted. I decided to climb a peak. I got to the summit, saw another one and kept going up! I ended up with a fantastic view of water and sailboats and eventually I ended up finding what I imagine used to be old crofts. There was only a pile of bricks and stone left, sometimes a perimeter into which encroaches heather and grass. Coming back down (eventually) I got what I deserved. I slipped. I didn’t so much as bruise myself, but one pant leg got soaked through. I had to do laundry when I came backĀ ! I might be going back to the pub tonight. One of the women who was there last night said she would be going and that she’d save me a seat. Why not? I’ll have to wash my tee-shirt anyway!

(I ended up going with two Canadian roomies. I had more fun than the night before!)

 

Hiking Around Aviemore

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2:27 pm

I’m writing this from the majestic shore of Loch an Eilan, a 13th century castle ruin just a stone’s throw away. Unfortunately, it’s not accessible. It was raining when I left Aviemore this morning, but now the sun is shining and the clouds are clearing. I can see the blue Highland sky. The hills around me are all awash with rain, and so brown. A few more days like this and they are bound to explode into fiery purpleness.

What a bonnie, wee castle it is! I’m so jealous of the birds that come and go from it as they please. It is overrun by trees and bushes; I have a view of the ā€˜front door’ into the courtyard, but it is blocked by foliage. The ground here is boggy, boot sucking, cranberry jelly slurping out of a can boggy. I’ll have to do more laundry tonightĀ ! Well, it’s a long way back to Aviemore, so I’ll be going.

Oh, the Highlands are bonnie, bonnie indeed!

6:55

What a great day! I really felt up to par, not sickish at all. I had a refreshing 11-hour night (9-8 AMĀ !) and then that delightful walk. Sure enough, Loch an Eilan means the island in the lake. Tomorrow, I’m on to Inverness. I’ve made an important decision. It’s obvious that I won’t see everything I want to see on this trip. So, I’ve decided to see only what I’d want to see if this was my only trip to Scotland, ever. The Orkneys (Skara Brae) and Skye aren’t on that list. I will spend 2 days in Skye, but the Wallacey and Brucey ā€˜stuff’ is more important. So? I’ll definitely get to Edinburgh for the 27th. Maybe earlier. After, I’ll see the W’y and B’y stuff I’ve missed. After I’ll see Aberdeen, St. Andrews, and Dundee. Then, the south. If, and only if, I’ve got a few days left (and cash) I’ll go back up to Orkney. This schedule saddens me a little, but it’s one I can definitely live with. I’ll regret missing Kildrummy more than Skara Brae, that’s for sure. Oh, and there’s Turnberry, too!

I can’t believe it’s already the 16th! I’m starting to feel the clock ticking. I’m getting to Inverness a little late tomorrow (around 3:00 pm), but Thursday I’ll try to get both CAWDOR CASTLE and CULLODEN in. Now this is what I came to Scotland for! I must admit I’m getting antsy for Stirling, Bannockburn, and even Falkirk. I might have missed the Stirling Battle anniversary, but I’m right on time (!) for the Falkirk one. Supposedly, there’s some ā€˜stuff’ going on to commemorate the battle. Personally, I’d rather forget it! No, that’s not true, and I find it extremely sad that Wallace was essentially disgraced after losing this battle. Hello? You win some, you lose some.

I’ll think I’ll ā€˜go out’ tonight. There’s a movie on at 8:15. Sure, it’s an American flick, but, as (my mother) suggests, it would be interesting to compare Canadian/American cinemas with British cinemas. Besides, it’s only Ā£3.

I had a fine dinner tonight: soup with cheese, the chewiest and most delicious bagel I’ve ever eaten, milk and a Dutchie-like pastry that’s less greasy and more yummy! I’ll never be able to eat a DutchieĀ again and think it’s delicious! I’m tired, but not going to bed early tired. Yup, I’m going out. I’ll be back a little late, but I can’t imagine getting lost in Aviemore, there have to be more rabbits and slugs than people in this crummy joint. I agree totally withĀ The Rough Guide (my slightly outdated, but still amazing guidebook). Aviemore isn’t great, but it’s surrounded by great walking country.

Speaking of which, I don’t think I could have made it to the lake without a map and compass. Coming back was easier, but I missed my turnoff and had to backtrack. I was walking through heather moorland, just like I’ve always dreamed, climbing over fences and jumping burns. I think this ā€˜flat level’ walk did me a ton of good. Yep, I think I’ll be ready for Ben Nevis! (at least I hope; in the papers yesterday there was an article about a man who fell off the mountain and died. Thanks for the encouragement!) That’s one thing I’d regret not doing.

… (more rambling about plans)

9:46 pm

I didn’t make it to the movie, finally. I found the building, it was run down, creepy, and empty. I wasn’t desperate enough to brave the ā€˜entrance’ and go towards the sound of 2 voices. Instead, I had a lovely walk to the edge of town. When I got back here, I settled down with a newspaper and a Kit Kat and tea I’d bought. Then, I planned my stay in Inverness. I’ll ā€˜wander’ around town tomorrow. I should be able to do both Culloden and Cawdor on Thursday, they’re on the same bus route.

ā€˜My heart’s in the Highlands

My heart is not here

My heart’s in the Highlands

A chasing the deer

Chasing the deer

And following the roe

My heart’s in the Highlands

Wherever I go.Ā 

… (Burns)’

 

In Which I Discovery Whisky and Uskeba is Born

10:27 AM

I’m following the orange trail. I’ve stopped at the Golf pond. You should see the ducks! I shared part of my lunchĀ with them!

11:08 AM

I’m sitting on a carved piece of wood that has a plaque which says ā€˜sit and enjoy the view’. So I am. The whole of Perthshire is laid out before me. Everything is so painfully beautiful and green. I’m following a road that Robert the Bruce marched across in 1306! Is it a wonder that I have ā€˜Scots Wha Hae’ running over and over in my mind! And to think that I couldn’t get myself out of bed this morning! It was 9 when I finally dragged myself out. Well, I’ll be on my way. I do want to make it to the distillery today and I must do so before 4. Lots of time, you say? I’m still at the beginning of this walk and it’s like 9.5 klicks or something. I haven’t felt so at peace since Colorado. Here’s another place where I’ll leave a chunk of my soul.

time? I don’t care! near noon

I’ve just finished an incredible hike up. The view here is so clear we can see straight through to the Glencoe mountains in the west. This place is called Craighower Hill. (The view out to Skye is ā€˜the Road to the Isles’, which can only be seen on a clear day, which are very rare. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky!!!)

12:58

Well, I’m back on the bench! It’s taken me 2 whole hours to get up and back. The road down was very twisty. The people who design roads in this country must be a little loco! The view from Craighower was incredible. I felt like I had the whole of Scotland at my feet. I used to find Canada rugged, well it isn’t, it’s untamed. Scotland has tamed its lands, while not foregoing an endearing ruggedness. ā€˜How could people have survived here for so long, fought to keep the land?’ (I took this paraphrase from the Lonely Planet guide to Great Britain) Oh! It’s so beautiful, better than in all my dreams! I walked through meadows of what I assume to be unbloomed heather. I’ll be on my way now, I want to do the distillery walk and the distillery opens in an hour. I can’t wait to taste the supposedly foul tasting brew. I’m told that most people don’t like ā€˜water of life’, so, since I’m so unlike most people, I’ll probably like it! Yeah right! I’m not expecting to enjoy it, but I look forward to finally tasting some.

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5:38 pm.

I think I’m in trouble. My initial reaction to whisky was the same as my initial reaction to beer: ā€˜I don’t like it, but I don’t hate it’. One knows how I have come to acquire a palate for beer, to say the least!

I’ve done more than enough walking for today! I am so stiff! I luxuriated in a scalding shower and put on totally fresh clothes, including jeans. I’m spending 2 nights in Aviemore, so if I launder straight away when I arrive I should have pretty much 2 full days for my laundry to dry! (turns out Aviemore is one of a few hostels I encountered which has a ā€˜drying room’—a room where the heat is turned way up at night so that clothes may dry more quickly.) I’m so pooped I can’t envision going down the steep hill outside leading up to the hostel in order to get dinner. I’ll have to go up it, after!

I’m very ahead in my budget so if I manage to get my butt ā€˜downtown’ I think I’ll have dinner in a restaurant. I should be eating more. Maybe that’s why I’m not up to my usual speed.

On my way back from Craighower, I stopped to feed the ducks (again). I got some to eat right out of my hand! One even clamped his beak down on my finger, but it didn’t hurt. One of the birds had a lame foot. I was extra generous to it!

It’s almost 6 so I guess I’ll go in search of dinner. I think tomorrow will be a ā€˜down’ day. They are necessary, I think. Tuesday, I’ll explore the area around Aviemore just like I did today in Pitlochry. Later.

7:48 pm

I returned from a yummy dinner of a veg. burger (hey, they’re cheap and filling, and this one was (and still is) the best I’ve ever eaten!) to find 2 guys in my room. Thanks to Edinburgh, I was hardly fazed. I nonchalantly headed down to the common room to discover that in my absence one of the ā€˜hostesses’ confronted the Aussie who was also staying tonight, claiming that she and I hadn’t paid for tonight! Well, my roomie got that sorted out. Anyhow, I found out that 6 guys had been put in the room and we had to move. It’s no big deal, but it is a hassle. I’d just spread out some wet stuff (now all those guys know what my undies look like!) and after rummaging through my bag, I’d left stuff strewn all over the bunk. Plus, I had to remake the bed. Oh well, it is better than sleeping w/ the sheep! I hope I won’t be hassled about ā€˜not having paid’ tomorrow!Ā I asked for directions to the ā€˜small dining room’. I was told to look for a door marked ā€˜strictly private’… and go in. Boy, I love the Scots!!!

… (extremely tentative itinerary)

Hell, I’m never going home!

Despite its beautiful name, it would appear that there isn’t much in Inverness. That doesn’t matter, I guess, since I’ll be using Inverness as a ā€˜springboard’ to the northern Highlands. I’m even starting to think that I shouldn’t ā€˜rush’ things with Haggis and just make a quick ā€˜overnight’ to Edinburgh to meet John and Linda (the authors of the ā€˜MacBraveheart’ homepage). I think Skye will take a long time to explore. It would appear that Eilean Donan (castle) is worth the trip. Besides, Skye is part of the Hebrides! ā€˜And we in dreams behold the Hebrides’. (ā€˜Canadian Boat Song’) I have to go!

It’s 8:35 and I’m just about ready for bed! I hiked almost non-stop and was up for 8 hours. I guess this is how I’ll feel once I’ve tackled Ben NevisĀ ! Actually, I have a ton of packing to do. Breakfast is from between 8 and 9 AM. And I have to be out of the room by 9:30. I’m supposed to be out of the hostel by 10Ā :30, but I’m sure I’ll be allowed to stay until the Haggis bus comes (there are 4 of us leaving, at least). I hope that the Aviemore hostel isn’t on top of a hill.I’m going to have to rethink my travel arrangements, I’m losing a lot of time.

 

I just discovered that Aviemore is in the Highlands!!! Yippee!!! This is way cool. Cool, cool, cool, cool!!!

Edinburgh to Pitlochry

7:37 AM

I’ve had a most comfortable night. What I like about this B and B is that a whole family lives here (the owners, of course). I’m getting a taste of what life is like for a family in Edinburgh. I’m glad that Yvonne picked me up yesterday. The B and B is situated in this tiny courtyard called Coiney House Close, just off New Skinner Close. To get into the building, you have to open this great big barn-like door, go up 3 flights of stairs until you reach another number 3 (the address is 3/3). The courtyard is so European, all cobblestone and stone buildings, very beautiful. I must say that finding this place was more than luck, it’s the sort of thing you read about in travel journals but never have happen to you. Breakfast, though, was not great, it was adequate: oatmealy cereal with raisins (I ate it with milk) and (white, yuck) toast with pineapple jam (yum!).

Of course, I never expected much sun in Scotland, so I didn’t bring much in the way of sunscreen. You should see my nose! I also have a nasty scrape on my wrist from scraping it against the rough wall as I clambered up the stairs after Yvonne with my huge pack (I would soon become known by everyone on Haggis as ā€˜the Canadian with the *really* small pack! I must say my packing job was *excellent*. I had nothing I didn’t need, and I’d only forgotten two minor things I could live without!). I have to make sure it doesn’t get infected. I never thought I’d be using the 1st aid kit so soon in my trip! Well, I’d better be going. Haggis is expecting me in 15 min. Both Michael and the guy from Laval are with Haggis also, except they’re doing 6 and 3-day tours.

Later (from Perth or Pitlochry?)

9:24 AM

I’m crossing the Firth of Forth.

10: 32 AM

We’re driving through the very pitiful remains of Birnam woods.

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3:24 pm

Well, I’m in Pitlochry. It’s very beautiful. I’ll most likely take a day trip or 2 from Edinburgh into Fife. I saw Perth and that was enough. I’ll be staying here for two nights. Tomorrow, I plan on hiking. Scotland’s smallest distillery is here, and I’ll be visiting it tomorrow (supposedly we get a free dram at the end of the tour).

Figures. I leave a big city for a town with a pop. of 2,000 and I find my 1st (and only, so far) stop sign and a ā€˜real’ supermarket. I’ve got my next three meals covered (that’s 4 in all) if I don’t mind eating bread, cheese, peanut butter, apples, and waterĀ for a while. I’ve bought Galloway cheddar. It’s delicious. On the way here, we stopped to hike a bit. I saw ā€˜Braes Folly’ (actually I’m not sure if that’s the real name, but ā€˜Braes’ and ā€˜Folly’ are 2 of the names associated w/ the area. Lodging here is Ā£15… for 2 nights, breakfast not included. Even with the breakfast you can buy (Ā£2), it’s still cheaper than Glasgow or Edinburgh, and the sheets are provided.

8:25 pm

I attempted to do the ā€˜Moulin’ walk today, but somehow got off the trail! (during the summer, the sun sets incredibly late. You can go out for a long walk/hike after dinner, and be back before twilight!) I still got some great mileage in cow country and soon discovered to my relief that I wasn’t lost but merely misplaced since I finally ended up just where I should!Ā The countryside is so very much like the Cantons de l’est, that must be why so many Scots settled there. On my walk, I crossed some very noisy sheep and some stupid, staring cows. I also scared a… pheasant! Or something that looks a hell of a lot like a pheasant. I also saw a hare.Ā I really got a taste of the ā€˜freedom of passage’ thingamabob. I was walking straight through fields of grazing cows for Pete’s sake! I even had to open and close a few barriers and climb over another.Ā I ended up in some ā€˜old’ couple’s yard. I was embarrassed but the lady only glanced up long enough to say ā€˜hello’.

I called (my mother) tonight through ā€˜Canada Direct’. It was ridiculously easy. She’s happy to have a more detailed itinerary. I’m thinking of Aviemore for 2 nights, then Inverness and my long sought Ben and Loch Loyal up way north! I’m doing fine financially and time-wise (the former, yesĀ ; the latter no, as I would soon discover to my ā€˜horror’!), so why not see if there’s anything to be seen! Of course, once I enter the Highlands I’ll enquire about whether it’s actually worth going up there.