June 26, 2009 by Rae

The Ninth Ave and Lookout Trails

Dawson has a fabulous mostly level cross-town trail called the ‘Ninth Ave Trail’, thusly named because it runs parallel to Eighth Avenue, the last road before the Dome. The Ninth Ave Trail ends at Mary McLeod Road. Kitty corner to the left from the end of the trail is the beginning of the Lookout Trail (just before the yellow sign). This gently sloping trail takes you up to the Lookout (hence the name), which offers a more intimate view of Dawson and the Yukon River than does the view from the very top of the Dome. I’ve been up this trail a few times and never grow weary of it as it offers an almost jungle-like experience before emerging into the open Lookout. From the top, you can continue up to the Slide, and from the Slide, you can reach the Dome’s summit.

Yukon River

Poplars at the Lookout

Dawson City and the Yukon River

Yukon River (looking up river towards Eagle, Alaska)

the Slide (seen from the opposite side of the Yukon River on another day)

June 21, 2009 by Rae

Into the Tundra

This post is a bit out of order as I have two other outings to write up, but this was the most exciting. 🙂 The internet has been misbehaving (a territory-wide issue), hence why I’m behind in my posting. Believe me, a lot has been going on and I’m making the most of my nightless summer in Dawson City!

Today is the solstice, the longest day of the year. Up here, the sun sets for just a short moment; it is the night where we come as close to 24 hours of daylight as possible. True 24 hour daylight is found further north, past the Arctic Circle.

Last year, I set as a goal that I would spend this solstice on the Dempster Highway at the Arctic Circle. I didn’t think it was a realistic goal, but it motivated me to at least be north of 60 by June 21st.

Sunday is a short work day for me, 7AM to 9AM, so I decided that a day trip onto the Dempster was in order. I drove 100km up the highway to Two Moose Lake and celebrated the solstice a ‘few’ hours early (I have to get up at 6 tomorrow!) at the southern limit of the tundra, 300km shy of the Arctic Circle. Wow! 😀

My original plan for the day was to just go hiking in Tombstone Territorial Park, but my manager told me to go 30km further north to Two Moose Lake so I could see the tundra. Great advice! I drove straight to the Lake, then did my planned hike on the Grizzly Creek Trail.

The Dempster has a reputation for being a very rough road, but the 100km I drove were easy. There were perhaps two sections with really bad potholes, but, otherwise, it was very smooth going on a road that was more dirt than gravel. My average speed was 70kph, but my return was more at 80 and 90kph since I knew what to expect. If the road is like that all the way to Inuvik, I am not worried about taking Miranda on it. I was disappointed that the first 30km or so are incredibly boring and that there are far too few turnoffs once you start to hit the incredible views! Small quibbles. 🙂

I only drove one seventh of the Dempster and was already struck by the sheer isolation of the land I was driving through. I saw a homestead or two that were obviously self-sufficient, but, otherwise, there is nothing but mountains and tundra as far as the eye can see. It was land a person could disappear in.

The Milepost guide has a section about the Dempster and includes the following helpful information about Two Moose Lake:

Moose can be seen at twilight.

What about the season when there is no twilight?! 😀

Even though I wanted to keep going after the lake, I knew I had a long drive home and an even longer hike planned, so I turned around and headed back into Tombstone Park. I stopped at the campground and information centre to get the latest trail report and to find out if there had been recent bear sightings on the trail (nope).

The day had dawned very grey with heavy clouds and they let loose during the time I was the information centre. By the time I reached the Grizzly Creek trailhead, the sun was out in full force. I always have ‘luck’ with the weather the day I decide to climb a mountain. Hopefully, that streak will hold up with the Chilkoot!

The trail leads to a backcountry campground, but my goal was the observation deck, about halfway. I hadn’t done any reading on the trail, so I didn’t know what to expect and was prepared for anything. My pack had everything I needed to take care of myself if ‘anything’ happened in the bush. I set off at 2PM with an ETA back at the car of 4 or 5 based on the little information the Milepost gave me.

The trail starts off gently, meandering through thick forest and lush vegetation, following the eponymous Grizzly Creek. The going is a bit treacherous as the trail is composed almost entirely of exposed tree branches, which are very slippery. The path slowly and sneakily starts to climb until you reach a staircase. From there, the slope is obvious and it’s a hard haul to the summit, with a patch of rock scrambling. Without exaggeration, the bit leading from the stairs to the top of the rocky area could be described in the same way as the trail from Sheep Camp over of the Chilkoot Pass is described in books, only in extreme miniature.

What impressed me the most was how the trail takes you up above the treeline to fantastic views of the valley below. Standing up at the summit was very humbling; I felt very small and insignificant, but, ironically enough, very much part of the world around me.

The hike down was much harder, jarring my poor knees. I would have twisted my ankles in a couple of spots had I not been wearing proper hiking boots with high tops. But what great practise this was for my next backcountry hike!

At the trailhead, there is a box with forms for ‘voluntary self-registration.’ The purpose is to find out how many people go into the park and for what reason so that the Yukon government can best manage the land. I filled in some of the info, such as where I was going and how long I planned to be there, but did not fill out the personal information as I am growing a bit paranoid in my older age ( 🙂 ). Upon returning to the trailhead, there is a second form to complete, which asks if there were changes made to the itinerary or length of journey. One of the last questions is “Did you encounter any wildlife?” I replied “Yes, mosquitoes.” Next question was “Why do you think this encounter occurred?” To which I replied “I didn’t wear bug spray.” I’m such a smart ass. 😀

I was back at the car by 4, where I inhaled a snack of yoghurt and a granola bar before heading back home, about an hour and a half away. I am very amused by the fact that I had to stop halfway and take a short nap! I haven’t had a real solid night’s sleep in weeks and have been surviving on catnaps, which explains my exhaustion. 🙂

What a fantastic day it was! I am so thrilled that I got a ‘taste’ of the Dempster this year; it will tide me over until next year, when I will finally go to Inuvik.

shortly after leaving pavement

heading into the Tombstones

the car was fully brown by the time I got home; the mud was about a half inch thick in parts!

icy lake

Never thought I would be so close to Inuvik!

Two Moose Lake

tundra

I fell in love with this peak and want to climb it one day!

Tombstone mountains

Tombstone mountains shrouded by fog

you start off at tree level and then climb up above the treeline; very impressive!

first sign of moose; I learned to watch my step!

the first part of the trail is tricky, with tons of slippery roots underfoot waiting to trip you

there was water before the bridge, but none under it. LOL!

still among the trees

the view makes it easy to forget the climb

upwards and onwards

a mini Chilkoot preparation (exaggerating!)

climbing

still climbing

above the tree line

I love this cloud; it started off looking like a pig and morphed into a horse!

June 13, 2009 by Rae

Countdown to the Chilkoot

This time and day next month, I will be camped out at the Chilkoot trailhead in Dyea, Alaska.

I have cranked up my training and am now hiking several hours a day. My job keeps me on my feet and moving all day, so the length of my shift determines the length of my hike and how strenuous it will be. Tonight was the first time I added a proper pack, weighing in at 25lbs, half of what I was told to prepare for on the Chilkoot. I spent two hours hiking about eight kilometres, including getting halfway up to Crocus Bluff, which is some pretty darn steep terrain!

An average day on the trail will be 10.6 kilometres, with the longest and most difficult day being that of the summit climb. My goal for the next four weeks is to keep climbing the dome with a progressively heavier pack. A few days before I’m set to leave for Whitehorse, the hiking group will be going all the way to the top and I was invited to do the climb with my full Chilkoot pack. The guide as well as a gal at the visitors’ centre who have done the Chilkoot before, say that if I can get to the top of the dome with my pack I will be able to deem myself ready.

Right now, my pack is filled with nonsense–sheets, towels, a 4L jug of water, and cans of food. When I increase to 30lbs, I will start to add my proper Chilkoot gear. My goal is to leave here with full supplies and a pack weighing no more than 20lbs seeing as I will need to add a tent, sleeping pad, cooking gear, and food when I meet up with the group in July. I won’t be able to control how heavy that stuff is, so the only way I can ensure myself a pack weighing less than 50lbs is to bring as little myself. We’ll see how realistic that 20lbs goal is. I backpacked around Scotland for a month in ’98 (um, the more recent ’98, not the ’98 of the Gold Rush! 😀 ) with a pack weighing 30lbs and I was ready for all weather.

Speaking of packs, I’ve gone back and forth over which one to bring with me and have decided that although it is a bit small, I’m going to aim for the same pack I took to Scotland. It’s moulded to my body by this point, sturdy, and lightweight. It was suggested we bring packs with an internal frame so that all our gear could be packed into the bag, but I cannot get used to the weight distribution of such a pack. So, a dry run at getting the pack filled is necessary in case I have to go emergency pack shopping in Whitehorse.

Looking at our itinerary tonight, it does not send shivers down my spine the way that it did back in February, so I’d say I’m making progress!

June 11, 2009 by Rae

Dawson’s Cemeteries

I hiked back up to Crocus Bluff today to get in some Chilkoot training and also to explore the numerous Dawson City cemeteries along Mary McLeod Road. There is a much less exhausting way of getting up there, of course, straight up King Street, which becomes Mary McLeod. Park at the Crocus Bluff Recreation Area parking lot and prepare for some slight uphill strolling.

There are several cemeteries in Dawson City, one for Catholics, one for Jews, one for Masons, one for the general public, a new one for the general public (since the older one is filled up), one for the NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) and one of the members of the Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers).

In the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century, it was very expensive to have marble brought up the Yukon River on a barge, so grave markers tended to be plain crosses painted white black lettering. Much of the markings have worn off now, but historians and family members have managed to identify a surprising number of graves. It would be easy to spend a full day exploring the cemeteries, there is so much of interest.

The weight of history was very heavy and I sort of melancholy overtook me as I respectfully made my way through the cemeteries. What struck me the most was how the majority of the graves were of people born a world away. In fact, no one is born in Dawson City today. Expecting mothers are flown to Whitehorse.

The Dawson Visitors’ Centre has a booklet about the cemeteries containing information about some of the more interesting graves. Much of the info in the following gallery is quoted from this guide. Let me add that the booklet is written with a tone of affection and respect, like the author knew and loved the people he or she was writing about.

This evening, guests asked me where they could find the cemeteries, so my timing in going there today was perfect!

Catholic cemetery

age 3 days

old marker with new

born in Buenos Aires, died in the wilds of Canada

Nolasque “Jack” Tremblay, a respected and admired “Grand Old Man.” His wife Émilie opened up a ladies shop.

Emma Woods, a member of Dawson’s sizable black community.

Merilda St. Pierre whose marker is now home to woodpeckers

Mainville Twins, Arthur & Albert, who died within days of each other of ‘summer complaint’ (probably dehydration). Their parents had lost another young child 17 months prior.

a recent grave; what a lovely resting spot

interesting grave marker

Jack and Hazel Meloy. This pioneer couple, the last of their kind, epitomized the spirit of rugged independence and self-reliance.

Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers) Cemetery

Jan Welzl. This intelligent eccentric was an explorer, inventor and author. He was born in Czechoslovakia and led a life of adventure and discovery across the north. Each year small delegations of followers visit this site to conduct memorial services.

interesting grave marker!

NWMP cemetery (these men died young!)

NWMP cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the sad state of the Jewish cemetery, with only one grave marked

The names of the Jews buried in the Jewish cemetery

Solomon Packer was a popular merchant who owned a hardware store on Front Street and passed away at the age of 57. He was a member of the Y.O.O.P. but chose to be buried in the cemetery of his faith.

these ropes are the only thing identifying the final resting place of Dawson’s Jewish dead other than Solomon Packer

water barrel

a lovely inscription

recent grave

Joe Vogler led a movement for a “free Alaska.” He sought secession from the U.S. and the joining together of Alaska with Yukon and part of northern British Columbia to become a separate county with laws favourable to miners. Although an American, he vowed he would never be buried in Alaska until it was free.

A modern-day tragedy. When 76-year old François became gravely ill in their cabin on upper Bonanza in December of 1977, 65-year-old Zdenka set out on foot to seek help “in extremely cold weather.” She was found frozen to death on the trail very near a neighbour who could have helped them. When the search party arrived at the cabin, they found François had also died. They were (and still are) missed by the mining community.

water barrel

Otokichi Arami, born in Japan, died at age 36 in August of 1901. His death was not reported in the local newspaper and little is known of him. However, he was not forgotten as this marker was erected in July 1904 by H. U. Matsumoto, relationship unknown.

English translation

the English translation is hidden behind this door

Ruth Mellish, aged 13

June 9, 2009 by Rae

Crocus Bluff

This summer, a couple of local gals have scheduled twice-weekly hikes around town. I thought that joining them would be the perfect way to get in some much needed Chilkoot training as well as to meet people. Tonight was the first hike and we went up to a place part of the way up the Dome called Crocus Bluff. It was quite a steep hike, with spectacular views. We came down the ‘old’ Dome Road past some cemeteries.