Departure Season

Croft and Gypsy‘s imminent departures from their wintering spots are making my Itch even worse. Four weeks left before I head back to Dawson City!

I had big plans for this winter, but only accomplished half of them, the renos. Unfortunately, my budget did not permit me to do much traveling so I will need to come back to Vancouver Island. I might have another trip up my sleeve this month, but it will really depend on how much further along I am in the preparations for departure.

To be honest, the renos were more important to me. One city is starting to look pretty much like another and there are a lot of forests in Canada, but I only have one home and it hasn’t been working for me as much as it could. I think my travels will be much more enjoyable now.

Today, after putting in several hours at my contract, I cleaned the cab and made sure Miranda starts. Beyond the interior preparations I have a lot of exterior considerations:

-oil change;

-tire pressure check and adjustment;

-fresh water system flush;

-black tank dump and flush;

-gas tank fill;

-propane fill (will be done in Chilliwack)

My last day of work should be April 28th, so departure is still right on schedule for May 1st. A big BOO goes to BC Ferries for hiking up their rates again. I paid $193 to come over. It seems I will now have to pay $214, a $21 increase. BOO!

Planning My Second Klondike Summer

I can’t believe that it’s already time to start planning my trip back north! I’ve ordered Terri and Mike Church’s book that I regretted not having last year as well as the 2010 Milepost.

Planning my route north this year is such a different experience since I am not about to set off into the unknown!

The ferry to Prince Rupert is probably not going to happen and there’s no way I’m taking the Sea to Sky highway again, so it’s pretty sure that I will be going to Prince George via Hope and highway 97 like I did last spring. From there, I’m really undecided as to whether I’ll take the Cassiar like I did in the fall, or the Alaska highway like I did last spring. I’m leaning towards doing the Alaska highway again and then doing the Cassiar in the fall. Have I fallen prey to routine?! 😀

While I’d love to stop off in favourite spots, like the Chasm, again, I’m hoping that the Church’s book will help me see this trip with new eyes.

For the little I did this winter, the season has flown by exceptionally fast. I didn’t see much on Vancouver Island, but other things that happened more than made up for that. I mean, I was in the right place at the right time to give my business the boost it really needed to take off. Financially, I won’t see the results of that until May, but that’s perfect since that’s the month I’ll be putting in the fewest working hours. It seems that I will simply need to return to Vancouver Island and the BC coast at some later date to do more ‘island hopping. As it is, I do plan to go to Victoria for a long weekend in late March or early April, so there is more tourism to come!

Hot Springs Cove

Well, I just had a completely unexpected amazing day. The wonders of this life never cease.

This morning, I slept in until 9:30 and was enjoying a leisurely breakfast when the manager of the hostel came to me and said that a tour company was trying to put together a trip to Hot Springs Cove and needed one more person to go. Would I be interested for the special rate of $84, taxes included?

Research about this day trip put the cost at close to $150, way out of my price range for this weekend. But $84? When else would I get to stay in Tofino for $20 a night and get to go to the Hot Springs for $84? Never.

So, my plans for the day changed very quickly!!! I only had a half hour to make a lunch (thankfully I had bought supplies last night) and come up with suitable attire since I hadn’t brought a bathing suit (I settled on pyjama shorts and a camisole!). I only had flip flops, which I was warned weren’t going to work out there, so I decided to just go barefoot. The hostel offered to lend me a towel so I wouldn’t have to dirty mine.

The hot springs are located on Vancouver Island, but are only accessible by boat and float plane. Here’s a map:

We went around the other side of Florence island to get to the cove, but came back on the side where you can see the arrows. (Picture from http://www.risingsunkayaks.com/images/Clayoquot/mapclayoquot.jpg)

The boat ride is one to one and a half hours each way, then there is a two kilometre walk up and down a boardwalk to get to the spring. It’s therefore a full day excursion.

We were only four today and everything was in our favour. The smaller group and time of year meant a more leisurely pace, we had the springs to ourselves, and the weather cooperated.

While whales can often be seen on these trips, this was the wrong time of year for that. All we saw were groups of sea otters bobbing on their backs waving their paws at us. Too cute!

The walk through the springs is through the rainforest. We had fun looking at the planks underfoot since they all had the names of ships (why, I didn’t quite catch). At one point, I spotted a board for the Stornoway and dryly commented that it must be the official boat of the opposition. A beat passed and then peals of laughter could be heard ahead of me. I love it when I make a funny. 🙂

The hot springs are nothing like those at Liard, where the springs are highly accessible pools. Here at Hot Springs Cove the springs are completely natural. You have to clamber down rocks and stake a claim in a comfortable spot if you can find one. I hunkered down in one ‘deep’ spot where I could at least be covered to my shoulders while the other lady on the trip preferred to stand under the ‘shower’, while the men moved around.

One really neat thing about these extremely hot springs is that sea water comes up and floods them, so you get a mix of hot and cold water. High tide was coming as we were getting comfy and the waves of cold water coming at us grew larger and larger. At one point, a monster of a wave started to bear down on us. I had no where to go, so I just sucked in a huge breath, closed my eyes, and braced myself so I wouldn’t be slammed against the slimy rocks. A crushing wall of ice-cold water covered me and I just rode it out, figuring the water would subside. It didn’t, so I started to climb to the surface before I needed air. My group was concerned, but there was no reason for that, everything was under control. I am at my best in water, even in less than ideal circumstances.

We had about an hour in the water and twenty minutes or so to have a picnic lunch before we had to head back down to the boat.

Facilities at the Hot Springs include a toilet at both the dock and the springs, as well as large changing rooms. There was no place to store valuables, which was fine today but would have sucked on a day with tons of people there. I can’t even fathom that place overrun with people; it must be so dangerous! Good, waterproof footwear would make the experience more fun, but bare feet are fine if you’re careful and not in a rush.

The weather was so warm that coming out of the springs with bare wet shoulders was no hardship. We did the trip in a covered and heated boat, but the few times I stepped onto the deck for pictures, I was struck by how comfortable we were; I’ve been colder in the middle of San Francisco Bay in late June. We had rain coming into the cove, but nearly clear weather coming out.

CIMG0219

CIMG0220

CIMG0227

CIMG0228

CIMG0229

CIMG0230

CIMG0231

CIMG0232

CIMG0233

CIMG0234

that dark spot floating in the water is a sea otter paw!

that dark spot floating in the water is a sea otter paw!

CIMG0236

CIMG0237

CIMG0238

CIMG0239

CIMG0241

CIMG0242

CIMG0243

CIMG0244

CIMG0245

CIMG0246

CIMG0247

CIMG0248

CIMG0249

CIMG0250

CIMG0251

CIMG0252

CIMG0253

CIMG0254

CIMG0255

CIMG0256

CIMG0257

CIMG0258

CIMG0259

CIMG0260

CIMG0261

CIMG0262

CIMG0263

CIMG0264

CIMG0265

CIMG0266

CIMG0267

CIMG0268

CIMG0269

CIMG0270

CIMG0271

CIMG0272

CIMG0273

CIMG0274

CIMG0275

CIMG0277

CIMG0278

CIMG0279

CIMG0280

CIMG0281

CIMG0282

CIMG0283

CIMG0284

CIMG0285

CIMG0286

CIMG0287

looking down at the swimming area

looking down at the swimming area

CIMG0289

CIMG0290

you can really see the swimming area in this one; first stop is the 'shower' and then you can stake a claim a little lower

you can really see the swimming area in this one; first stop is the ‘shower’ and then you can stake a claim a little lower

looking down towards the swimming area

looking down towards the swimming area

CIMG0293

CIMG0295

CIMG0296

CIMG0297

CIMG0298

CIMG0299

CIMG0300

CIMG0301

CIMG0302

flat calm between Vancouver Island and Florence Island

flat calm between Vancouver Island and Florence Island

you can see the hostel, look for the green roof on the far right side

you can see the hostel, look for the green roof on the far right side

you can see the hostel, look for the green roof on the far right side

you can see the hostel, look for the green roof on the far right side

CIMG0308

You can see the hostel quite well in this one.

You can see the hostel quite well in this one.

Campbell River to Nanaimo

There are two ways to get from Campbell River to Nanaimo. The first is the way I came after the ferry, highway 19, a new thoroughfare deemed the ‘inland highway.’ It is a speedway, pure and simple, with the highest speed limit I’ve ever seen in Canada (110kph) and nothing to see except a blur of trees. The second option is the older ‘ocean route’, highway 19A, which meanders its way quietly through sleepy hamlets. This is the route I picked to go to Nanaimo today.

It rained all day and most businesses were shut tight, so there wasn’t really much exploring to do. I simply savoured the coastal drive, occasionally stopping for photographs or to stretch my legs.

My longest stop before Nanaimo was in Qualicum Beach, a picturesque retirement community with the oldest average population in Canada. ‘Qualicum’ is from the Pentlach language and means ‘chum salmon.’ I took a small detour into downtown so I could see some of the murals. The town has a museum, but it is only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays during the winter.

I’ve known about Nanaimo since I was a girl because my childhood best friend moved there when were were about ten. I looked him up before coming to the Island, but have thus far been unable to find him and imagine that he’s probably no longer in town. Nanaimo is also famous because of the delicious dessert named after it, the Nanaimo Bar, a decadent confection featuring chocolate, custard, and coconut.

The weather made wandering around the pedestrian-friendly downtown unappealing, so I decided to visit the Nanaimo Museum and take a quick glimpse at the harbour, then call it a day.

Coming into downtown Nanaimo was frustrating. There were two signs for the city and then signs for Victoria, more than a hundred kilometres away. I assumed that I missed downtown and got off the highway, then spent some time trying to find the museum before my GPS was able to help me. As it turns out, Nanaimo is a long, narrow city, and there were more than ten kilometres left to drive before hitting the downtown exit. Nanaimo definitely needs a ‘exit at *** for downtown’ sign at the city limits. Once downtown the museum is easy to find, just follow the big blue M signs. I was happy to find free parking at the corner of Museum Way and Terminal Avenue, literally in front of the museum entrance.

The Nanaimo Museum is brand new. The $2 entrance fee was easily explained by the museum’s size; tiny. This is a fine museum that makes full use of its small footprint. Within a few minutes of arrival I knew what Nanaimo was all about, from its coal mining origins to its bathtub races and Native heritage. It was one of the best museums I have ever visited.

During the summer, the museum also operates the Nanaimo Bastion, a fort built by the Hudson’s Bay Company between 1853 and 1855 to defend its coal mining operations. I had a chance to view the exterior of the Bastion after taking a quick tour of the harbour, which was cut short by the start of a downpour that did not let up until I got home. The harbour was just a couple of blocks from the museum and my raincoat was soaked through by the time I made it back to the car!

Nanaimo has a reputation for being a working, charmless, city, but I found downtown to be quite beautiful and I would very much like to spend more time exploring it on a slightly drier day. Being just 150km from Campbell River, it is the perfect destination for a day trip; far enough away to shake off cabin fever, but still near enough to be easily doable as a round trip.

the first rest area outside of Campbell River

the first rest area outside of Campbell River

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

next rest area

next rest area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Oysters underfoot at Baynes Sound Rest Area

Oysters underfoot at Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

trawlers off of Baynes Sound Rest Area

trawlers off of Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

farm across from Baynes Sound Rest Area

farm across from Baynes Sound Rest Area

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

details about the mural

details about the mural

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

downtown Qualicum Beach

downtown Qualicum Beach

CIMG0027

CIMG0028

CIMG0029

CIMG0030

bathtub racing, what an idea!

bathtub racing, what an idea!

CIMG0033

Nanaimo bars

Nanaimo bars

the first black teacher in BC

the first black teacher in BC

CIMG0036

Nanaimo's mines are notorious for their death and injury rates, hence the ironic messages.

Nanaimo’s mines are notorious for their death and injury rates, hence the ironic messages.

Native dress

Native dress

CIMG0039

CIMG0040

CIMG0043

this trunk belonged to Joseph McKay, founder of Nanaimo

this trunk belonged to Joseph McKay, founder of Nanaimo

CIMG0045

CIMG0046

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

world famous singer Diana Krall is from Nanaimo

world famous singer Diana Krall is from Nanaimo

arrowheads

arrowheads

CIMG0054

these beautiful combs caught my eye

these beautiful combs caught my eye

drum

drum

Victrola

Victrola

book of Victrola records

book of Victrola records

Victrola

Victrola

historic building

historic building

close-up

close-up

downtown Nanaimo

downtown Nanaimo

:-)

🙂

CIMG0064

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

what a great staircase!

what a great staircase!

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

I don't know if I will ever be able to see a palm tree in the wild and not feel a tingle.

I don’t know if I will ever be able to see a palm tree in the wild and not feel a tingle.

the Bastion

the Bastion

CIMG0072

A Phenomenal Storm

It normally takes me 5 minutes to walk to work. This afternoon, it took me 10 minutes to get home. It is seriously stormy and windy out there. I walked right into the brunt of it and it was literally like forcing myself through a physical barricade of air and water. I was soaked to the bone, exhausted, and frozen solid when I got home.

The town of Courtenay, just 50km south of Campbell River, has declared a state of emergency because of severe flooding. One of my last customers of the day was a gal just a couple of years younger than me who was evacuated just in time to watch her trailer and all her worldly belongings float down a river, land on a bridge, and get demolished by the gale. She was in remarkably good spirits.

Last time I saw an ocean storm like this was on Gran Manan Island, in New Brunswick, during their unforgettable Labour Day storm of 1994 which just about wiped out the fishing industry. We had been scheduled to return to the mainland, but had to remain on the island because our tour bus could not be secured on the ferry. I remember standing on the pier watching our ferry nearly flounder in waves as high as it was. The passage over a few days later was incredibly rough and I was only one of a few who did not get seasick.

The road below the house is flooded in parts and I am glad to be sitting up high, but a little nervous that I don’t have an escape route for Miranda should water get all the way up here. I know the chances of that are incredibly remote, but like in Dawson this summer I am acutely aware that there is nowhere to go should the world go to hell.

Miranda is well buffered on all sides and is barely rocking. I am warm and cozy and have a fantastic view of the wipe caps rolling in. I’m going to sit here a while, snug as a bug, and enjoy one of the best views mother nature has to offer.