Good Thing I Didn’t Come For the Gold

Gold was the theme of the day.

Claim No. 6

The mosquitoes at Discovery Claim sure hit the jackpot with me today! πŸ˜€

It was the discovery of gold at this claim on Bonanza Creek that launched the Gold Rush of 1898. Today, you can park at the claim site and stroll down to the water to try your hand at panning for gold. I borrowed a pan and shovel from work and had fun spending about a half hour playing in the mud before the mosquitoes and frozen ground chased me away. I’m pretty sure I struck iron pyrite based on the number of gold-coloured flakes lying at the bottom of my pan. There is no way I am going to even think that they might have been real gold. πŸ™‚

Dredge No. 4

Dredge No. 4 was one of several barges (set in man-made lakes) used to mine for gold from the 1930’s to the 1960’s. Β How they work is a bit complicated to explain without actually being on site, but I’ll try. I’d say the nearest comparison is a mechanical shovel:

The dredge works on a similar pivot-system and has a thingamabob sticking out of it like the shovel of the digger. This thingamabob gobbles up all the gravel and dirt in front of it in a wide radius and sends it into the bowels of the dredge to be processed for gold. When all the gravel and dirt has been eaten, the dredge moves ahead. It spits out its back the unusable rock forming the Klondike’s famous rock piles called ‘tailings.’ I was surprised to learn that only four men where needed to operate these behemouths. That figure is misleading, however, since a ‘dredge camp’ had more than 100 employees.

The method for mining gold in the Klondike appears to be quite different than inΒ Val d’Or, but this might be because of the permafrost here. There seems to be a lot of tourmaline and quartz in the tailings, so I think we can assume that Klondike miners are looking for the same thing as Val d’Or miners, but have a different way of getting at it.

Dredge no. 4 sank into muck in the sixties and in the eighties the decision was made to salvage it. Work on that project did not start until the early nineties. The lower level had been stuck in silt and ice for almost thirty years by this point, but the structure still came out mostly intact! They were even able to salvage the old floors. What impressed me the most, thought, was that the mechanical parts that had been buried for so long still worked perfectly.

Parks Canada now manages the site and gives a very good hour and fifteen minute tour ending with a ten minute video presentation of the raising of the barge. Well worth a visit!

The statistic I remember best from the tour is something I haven’t been able to confirm or deny. Apparently, Dawson City was the third city in North America to get electrical power after Chicago and Montreal. If that’s the case, I am very impressed!

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tools of the trade

tools of the trade

Bonanza Creek, cold as hell, yellow as gold

Bonanza Creek, cold as hell, yellow as gold

at one point, I realised that my toes were turning blue, the ground and water were so cold!

at one point, I realised that my toes were turning blue, the ground and water were so cold!

Dredge No. 4 (this is a BARGE!)

Dredge No. 4 (this is a BARGE!)

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thick cables!

thick cables!

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clutches

clutches

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view of the manmade lake from the winch room (highest level of the dredge we can visit)

view of the manmade lake from the winch room (highest level of the dredge we can visit)

emergency stop button (and my feet, again)

emergency stop button (and my feet, again)

sluice boxes

sluice boxes

these were buried in silt under ice for almost forty years and STILL WORK!

these were buried in silt under ice for almost forty years and STILL WORK!

planks from 1939/1940, buried in silt and covered by ice for almost 40 years! (and, of course, my feet)

planks from 1939/1940, buried in silt and covered by ice for almost 40 years! (and, of course, my feet)

this shot really shows that the dredge is a big boat

this shot really shows that the dredge is a big boat

driving home along Bonanza Creek Road

driving home along Bonanza Creek Road

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Crocus Bluff

This summer, a couple of local gals have scheduled twice-weekly hikes around town. I thought that joining them would be the perfect way to get in some much needed Chilkoot training as well as to meet people. Tonight was the first hike and we went up to a place part of the way up the Dome called Crocus Bluff. It was quite a steep hike, with spectacular views. We came down the ‘old’ Dome Road past some cemeteries.

dike along the Yukon River

dike along the Yukon River

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Yukon River

Yukon River

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

view from Crocus Bluff

view from Crocus Bluff

heading to old Dome Road from Crocus Bluff

heading to old Dome Road from Crocus Bluff

old cemetery

old cemetery

NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) cemetery

NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) cemetery

old cemetery

old cemetery

Dawson from old Dome Road

Dawson from old Dome Road

Dawson from old Dome Road

Dawson from old Dome Road

Saturday Evening Ice Cream Stroll

For some unfathomable reason, last fall I was able again, after about three years of not being able, to eat ice cream. Since then, I’ve been making up for lost time, but keeping moderation in mind. πŸ™‚ I really enjoy going out for an ice cream and a stroll on a sunny evening, especially at the end of a work week. So, when I saw the manager come in with an ice cream this afternoon (after leaving me all alone in the office!), I asked her where she got it.

Turns out that Dawson City has a proper ice cream parlour. Whitehorse doesn’t have one!!!

This store is called Klondyke Cream & Candy. It’s located on Front Street.

I’m told that the cost of living in Dawson City is about 15% higher than in Whitehorse, but I have yet to see that in luxury items like restaurant food and booze at bars. Even so, I was surprised to discover that a one scoop regular cone of ice cream here is just 2.50$. Two scoops are 3.50$. Add a dollar for a waffle cone. The selection of flavours was impressive (they even had an excellent copy of my favourite Baskin Robbins flavour) and they have soft ice cream, frozen yoghurt, milkshakes, etc.

It’s going to be so nice to bike into town one or two nights a week, get a treat that won’t even nudge the budget, and partake in dairy goodness as I walk along the Yukon River enjoying the late day sun, which, really, isn’t all that different from the routine I formed when I was in South Surrey. Just substitute ‘Pacific Ocean’ for ‘Yukon River.’ πŸ˜€

Dawson City’s Midnight Dome

Driving northbound into Dawson City, just after the bridge, you will see on your right a sign indicating a photo op on Dome Road. Make sure to turn! The road will take you up to the highest point in Dawson, the Midnight Dome, where solstice festivities take place every year. It’s a long climb (so I suggest driving πŸ˜€ ) that is well worth it. Do pull out along the way to take in the views partway up the hill!

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At Long Last, Dawson City

no words can convey my disbelief at making my way here

no words can convey my disbelief at making my way here

8,500 of the roughly 10,000km (including toad trips) that separated me from Ottawa

8,500 of the roughly 10,000km (including toad trips) that separated me from Ottawa

I did two trips into Dawson City on Wednesday. The first was simply a scouting mission: get the lay of the land, find a place to live, get a job, top off the groceries, not necessarily in that order. If that all worked out, I would go drop off the groceries, have lunch, and then return to do touristy stuff in the afternoon.

I pulled into Dawson City at about 10AM and by noon I was back at home at the campground my mission fully accomplished. I love the Yukon!

My first stop in Dawson City was the post office where I confirmed that they accept general delivery. I haven’t received my mail in, oh, about six weeks. I did check in with my UPS store guy when I was in Nugget City and there didn’t seem to be anything important. Hopefully. πŸ™‚

I’ll pause here to say that Dawson City is the first city I’ve ever visited that’s exactly the way I envisioned it would be. It is a page taken out of an old western; a compact town with false store fronts, dusty roads, and wooden sidewalks. Interpreters in costume roam the street, adding to the ‘old time’ feel. The town is vibrant for all it seems to be stuck in history and the locals, born here or not, all seem to share a common joy at living in this jewel of a town. It wasn’t love at first sight as I already loved Dawson before I set eyes on her, but rather love confirmed. πŸ™‚

Next, I went to the Visitors Centre. The helpful gal there told me to check out the Klondike Outreach employment centre for work and an RV park just outside of town (2km) for long-term rates.

The employment centre didn’t have anything inspiring, so I just got groceries (prices slightly higher than Watson Lake, but still not shocking except for some produce) and headed back out to visit the RV park.

I won’t give the name of the park, but it’s the third one in a row on the west side of the highway and closest to Dawson. πŸ™‚ The manager told me the monthly rate, said he didn’t have weekly rates, and pretty much told me to get lost when I asked him about work. To be fair, he told me to come back later, but from his tone I knew I would be out of mind the minute I was out of sight.

So, I went to the next park down the road and was hired on the spot for at least enough hours to cover rent, with a decision as to full-time hours to be made the next day (today). Have I mentioned yet how much I love the Yukon? πŸ™‚

I returned to town in the afternoon but didn’t stay long because I wasn’t dressed for the weather. Since Whitehorse, I have felt like I was in Nevada in parts; it is so dryly hot and dusty with an unrelenting sun. I hope I get used to it!

I took a lot of pictures on my walkabout town, but I’m not going to share most of them simply because I plan to take in the town slowly. Here are some teasers:

Dawson City, as seen from the top of Dome Road

Dawson City, as seen from the top of Dome Road

victims of permafrost

victims of permafrost

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the grocery store

the grocery store