The Jack London Cabin

Dick North, a Yukon historian now based in Whitehorse, can be credited for finding the facts about novelist Jack London’s year in the Klondike. There has been so much myth and conjecture, but he found irrefutable pieces of evidence that form a picture of the year that served as a catalyst for London’s writing career.

Jack London was born into desperate poverty in Oakland, California. He laboured part-time as a child until he left school at 14 to work sixteen to eighteen hour days, seven days a week, at a pickle factory. When he’d had enough of that, he became an able bodied seaman and traveled to the most far flung corners of the world.

When news came to the outside world in 1897 that there was gold in the Klondike, London was ripe for adventure. He headed north with his brother-in-law, their outfit financed by London’s step-sister. London came over the Chilkoot Trail in August 1897, a year ahead of the column of people who would eventually make it to the gold fields.

Dick North found, while searching through archives, a photo of a group at Sheep Camp and by identifying each person in the photo he was able to identify Jack London. This photo is the only known photo of London not only on the Chilkoot, but in the north.

London made it to the Klondike and staked a claim at Henderson Creek, this fact supported by a document found by north: Jack London’s claim registration, dated October 1897 and signed in Dawson City!

While London was only in the north for a year, forced out by scurvy, it proved to be a transformative experience for him and inspired him to write many novels, the most famous of which is Call of the Wild. He sold the rights to this book to MacMillan publishing for a few thousand dollars. This book has not been out of print since and contributed to making MacMillan the powerhouse publisher that it is today.

As if the Sheep Camp photo and claim registration documents weren’t enough, Dick North found his holy grail: one of the cabins Jack London stayed in during his long, dark Klondike winter. This cabin was identified in two ways. The first is that it is described in perfect detail in one of London’s books. The second is a piece of graffiti: London’s signature in pencil scrawled on the inside of a wall.

The cabin was falling to ruin and at risk of getting lost in the wilderness. Funds to rescue it were hard to find, but when the city of Oakland got wind of North’s discovery it offered to finance the rescue on the condition that the cabin be brought to Oakland for display in their Jack London Square.

North decided that this wouldn’t do and he had a crazy, but rather brilliant, idea: split the cabin in two. There are now two Jack London cabins to be seen, one in Dawson, Yukon, and one in Oakland, California. The Dawson cabin’s bottom half is original while the top is a reproduction. The reverse is true for the one in Oakland!

Next to the cabin in Dawson is a bear proof food cache and a newer building that houses pictures and documents related to London’s life.

This excellent exhibit and talk from the Klondike Valley Association come with a $5 admission fee, but it’s only $2.50 upon presentation of an entrance coupon from Diamond Tooth Gerties.

Before I share pictures, here is a quote from Jack London that echoes something I said last summer about my own Klondike experience:

It was in the Klondike I found myself. There nobody talks. Everybody thinks. You get your true perspective. I got mine.

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the building on stilts is a bear-proof food cache

the building on stilts is a bear-proof food cache

London's eldest daughter; looks just like him!

London’s eldest daughter; looks just like him!

London's notebook

London’s notebook

London at Sheep Camp on the Chilkoot Trail, and him dressed as a tramp for some research he was doing for a novel

London at Sheep Camp on the Chilkoot Trail, and him dressed as a tramp for some research he was doing for a novel

map of the routes to the gold fields

map of the routes to the gold fields

London and his youngest daughter, circa 1904. He looks like a Kennedy!

London and his youngest daughter, circa 1904. He looks like a Kennedy!

London wrote an average of 1,000 words a day for more than seventeen years

London wrote an average of 1,000 words a day for more than seventeen years

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

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Dawson City Walking Tour With Costumed Interpreter

I had a full day this overcast and cool Friday, and covered four attractions, posts for which will follow over the next few days. I’ll start off with the Dawson City walking tour led by a Parks Canada costumed interpreter.

This 90 minute tour covers only a tiny portion of downtown Dawson, pretty much just two blocks square, and doesn’t touch on three quarters of the subjects I would have expected it to cover. It is a great tour that, to my immense delight, took us into buildings I thought were just façades.

The tour starts at the Palace Grand Theatre, but doesn’t go into any details about it.

The Palace Grand today is where you can buy tickets for the Parks Canada attractions as well as a ‘Pick-a-Pack’, which gives you access to three attractions for the price of two. There will be a big shingding there tomorrow, with ladies in gowns and men in tuxes, an annual event known as the Commissioner’s Ball.

Our first stop was Lowe’s Mortuary where we learned about the different ways folks made their fortune in Dawson, from placer mining to saloon keeping to prostitution. One fact that I learned was that before the cold came, an estimate was made of how many people might die over the winter and that many graves were dug before the ground froze!

this furniture maker diversified to include a line of caskets

Next stop was the Bank of British North America.

This was the first bank to operate in Dawson, starting business in a tent in 1897. Today, the only bank in Dawson is a CIBC, across the street on 2nd avenue. As a bonus, you can see in the background the original CIBC bank where Robert Service worked.

Going into this building was neat since I walk by it so many times in an average week.

inside the Bank of British North America

The next stop was Ruby’s Place, the site of the last brothel in Dawson, which shut down in the 1960’s!

Behind the brothel is a row of little cabins:

these ‘cribs’ are from the Gold Rush era and were the ‘offices’ of ladies of the night

Imagine an alley lined with these things, all holding a girl plying the oldest trade in history.

Rather than outlaw prostitution, the Northwest Mounted Police regulated the profession, requiring the women to have monthly checkup. They would have to present their ‘clean bill of health certificate’ upon request and they would be fined or even expelled from town if they did not have it.

The next stop was my favourite simply because I’ve always thought that this was a building with a great front and that it’s a shame that there’s nothing inside. Joke was on me!

inside the Red Feather Saloon

This building housed several saloons. The Red Feather Saloon was the last one and the name on the building when it was taken over by Parks Canada. However, the inside was modeled on an earlier saloon, the Hub, simply because it’s the only one for which a picture of the inside remains. Note that gambling was outlawed in Dawson in the early 1900’s, so the only games played in the Red Feather Saloon were of the pleasure variety, such as cribbage.

The final stop on the walking tour was the original 1898 post office.

exterior of the original 1898 post office

inside the original 1898 post office

The arrival of a post office and bank in Dawson confirmed its identity as a proper town that would not simply fade into history the way so many other gold rush towns, such as Dyea, did. There was a time when Dawson was a major city of 30,000 souls, one that got electricity and telephone service well ahead of what are now major North American cities. Today, it is a shadow of its former self, but it is still a thriving community and one that is not likely to fade quietly into non-existence.

The tour over, I headed across the street to the current post office, down to Front Street to the Riverwest Café for a sandwich to eat later, and then I hoofed it up to Writer’s Row, 8th Avenue, to learn all about two of the three famous authors associated with Dawson, and see the home of the third. To be continued… 🙂

Check out the gallery for more pictures from the walking tour:

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inside of the Palace Grand

inside of the Palace Grand

ball gown displayed in the Palace Grand

ball gown displayed in the Palace Grand

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this couple seems so in love; it's rare to see a 'period' picture with people looking so, well, human!

this couple seems so in love; it’s rare to see a ‘period’ picture with people looking so, well, human!

looking out at 2nd Avenue

looking out at 2nd Avenue

close up of some of the colourful buildings on 2nd Avenue

close up of some of the colourful buildings on 2nd Avenue

Home Hardware

Home Hardware

our interpreter, Colleen, is also a dancer at Gerties!

our interpreter, Colleen, is also a dancer at Gerties!

closeup of a crib (original 1898 building, moved to its current location)

closeup of a crib (original 1898 building, moved to its current location)

pleasure games table in the Red Feather Saloon

pleasure games table in the Red Feather Saloon

inside the Red Feather Saloon

inside the Red Feather Saloon

the current decore of the Red Feather Saloon was based on this photo of the interior of the Hub Saloon, housed in the same building.

the current decore of the Red Feather Saloon was based on this photo of the interior of the Hub Saloon, housed in the same building.

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inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

outside of the original 1898 post office

outside of the original 1898 post office

original 1898 post office

original 1898 post office

Misconceptions about Dawson City

I spoke with two people today who really made me shake my head at just how little research some people do before making a journey. I like to get a feel for where I’m going and an idea of what there might be to see and do, but wait until I arrive to get the full lowdown on attractions. Some people apparently get in their car and say “I think I’ll go to Dawson City today!” and here they are. That tends to work out quite well in more populated areas, but if you’re heading to a remote place, a modicum of research is necessary, methinks.

The first person asked me where the Canadian Tire is and how late it’s open. When I replied that Dawson’s only chain store is a Home Hardware and that shops close early, he was appalled. “It’s only 7 and I don’t have a cable for my tv! What am I going to do tonight?!” I suggested going to Gerties in as neutral a tone as I could. He took my suggestion, but made sure to add “I don’t know how you can live like this.”

Then there was the person who called to get information on Dawson, specifically to confirm that we have more than a half dozen motels, hotels, and inns. “I thought Dawson was just this little blip on the map that you zip through en route to Alaska” she said (and I’m quoting her word for word). I replied that Dawson is the town with the most to see and do on the Yukon-Alaska circuit (a fact that I’ve read in  several locations) and that people rarely plan long enough for it. “Do y’all have restaurants?!” Yes, there are an inordinate number of restaurants in Dawson. “Museums?!” Yes. There’s the Dawson City museum as well as a score of other sites to visit (I’ll be starting my grand tour on Friday!).

There is easily enough to do in Dawson to spend a week and be busy every day with a couple of activities. A week isn’t long enough to try every restaurant or do every attraction if you only do one a day. Dawson even has stores, and the ones that cater to tourists also carry things locals would want to pay for.

I’m not sure what I expected from Dawson other than it be itself. I knew that its location at the end of the Klondike Highway would mean limited services, but I suspected that there would be a good amount of entertainment.  I got here with an open mind and an eagerness to try life in a semi-remote community. Some things have amazed me, but generally I take things in stride. I’m learning to live on Dawson time, which includes going out for ice cream and a walk along the dike at 9PM with a friend instead of hitting the mall and keeping my meal plans flexible to accommodate the treasure hunt that is grocery shopping here. How do I live here? Quite happily.

Scenes from Dawson City

Just some random photographs taken during my aimless wanderings the other night:

this sign always amuses me

this sign always amuses me

the Eldorado Hotel, home of the Sluicebox Lounge bar

the Eldorado Hotel, home of the Sluicebox Lounge bar

My 'Dawson truth' lies somewhere between the gaudy carnival and the harsh, sobering reality. Of course, I only know SummerDawson.

My ‘Dawson truth’ lies somewhere between the gaudy carnival and the harsh, sobering reality. Of course, I only know SummerDawson.

the above text comes from this exhibit; it's free and open super late

the above text comes from this exhibit; it’s free and open super late

this building is just a façade; far as I know there is nothing going on inside

this building is just a façade; far as I know there is nothing going on inside

Bombay Peggy's pub & inn

Bombay Peggy’s pub & inn

This pizza place is accessible only through an alley (hence the name Back Alley Pizza). I've found the building after much searching and am now trying to figure out where the entrance is!

This pizza place is accessible only through an alley (hence the name Back Alley Pizza). I’ve found the building after much searching and am now trying to figure out where the entrance is!

Nothing much has been going on over the past few days; it’s just been insanely busy! The movie crew has checked out so life should be a bit less zany for the next couple of days. I am also going to be starting a new schedule on Monday which will give me several days a week to go out and explore the things I meant to explore last year.

Backroads of Dawson

My friend Nathalie is currently in vacation mode with a lot of time off AND she has a 4×4, high clearance vehicle perfect for driving on washboard routes. So, she has been very content over the past two days to show me some of the far reaches of the Dawson area that she discovered over the course of her winter here.

Our adventure started last night, with a bit of a tangent. We went out just before 9 and spent so long trying to decide what we wanted for dinner that our only inexpensive option wound up being the casino. The dining choices in summer-time Dawson are incredible! We didn’t realise just how big the variety is until we started the whole “Greek?” “Nah. Italian?” “Nah. Fish and chips?” routine. We wound up getting pizza at the casino and then sharing a veggie dog from the hot dog cart. 🙂

We left Gerties just before the 10:30 show because we were in a talkative mood. Nathalie suggested we hop on the ferry so she could show me the location of west Dawson and Sunnydale, two neighbours on the other side of the Yukon River where homes are 100% self-sufficient. She and I are sort of interested in buying property in the area and have pretty much narrowed our options to west Dawson, so we also spent some time looking for and at empty lots.

West Dawson feels like a remote suburb–houses are fairly close together but there is quite a bit of tree coverage for privacy. Sunnydale, though, is isolated. Roads are maintained in west Dawson so folks can go to town in their vehicles in the winter via the ice bridge, but Sunnydale residents rely on snowmobiles and dog sleds. There are a few businesses on that side of the river, including a kennel and the Top of the World golf course, but otherwise it’s still almost pristine wilderness.

Let me pause here to get back to the buying property topic since I know that raised a few eyebrows. I’m entertaining the idea of buying a small chunk of property that I won’t need to build on just to have a physical address of my own to firmly establish my ties to Canada and Yukon. I would like for it to be RV accessible so that I could use it as an RV pad. I started to think about this last year, and the idea continues to grow on me. If I choose to buy in Dawson, the time to do so is now as prices are starting to sky rocket. This is still very much a project written in sand.

Today, we were going to go gold panning again, but decided instead to check out the gold fields route. I will come back to this route in greater detail when we go again since today was really a scouting mission with no time for pictures. As a teaser, I will say that this route has you climb up so high above the Dawson valley that rivers were still choked with ice and there was several feet of snow in places even though the mercury was at over 30 degrees!

I can’t get over how big this country is, country in terms of the wilderness expanses. There is just green as far as you can see with a swath of golden road cutting through it. I have to say it–it’s like driving on the yellow brick road through the Emerald City!

We’d been driving for over an hour when I started to get concerned about returning to work on time. The landscape was always the same and we hadn’t seemed to make any progress, so I was happy when Nathalie recognized a landmark and told me we were 45 minutes out, giving us an at home ETA that would give me a half hour to spare.

Throughout our drive, Nathalie shared her tales of life in winter Dawson and told me about a really colourful local character. I may come back to him if I get to meet him and he agrees to give me a formal interview. He officially made life in Dawson feel like a novel. 😀

In other news, the weather is HOT and DRY and SMOKY. The fire season is almost a month early this year and it promises to be a bad one. Anyone heading north better keep on top of road closures. A very bad fire just west of Tok closed the road between Tok and Fairbanks and nearly took out a full community. Meanwhile on the 40km up the Dempster highway a huge fire broke out today and will most likely close down that road within a few days. Interestingly enough, it’s the same customers who complain that we’re in a territory-wide fire ban (What, no fire pits?! You guys suck!) who also complain that there is poor visibility on the Top of the World and Dempster Highways. *shakes head*

It’s been a couple of full days and I can’t believe that we’re about to roar into June!