Back to the Beginning

I was running low on coffee, so I emailed Dale yesterday to see if she wanted to meet up today. As it turned out, she had a late morning meeting in Centro, so she suggested I give her my coffee order, she’d pick it up, and then we could meet in front of Waldo’s around 11:30. That worked!

I left early since I wanted to go to the bank and also stop in at the dress shop and have the straps adjusted on my new dress. Feeling lazy, I took 21 de marzo from Emilio Barragán to avoid the giant Leandro Valle hill. The ATM for the Santander bank is on 21 de marzo anyway, one block past the cathedral.

After my withdrawal, I walked the few blocks to get some nieve de garrafa. For the first time, they had lemon. I haven’t had lemon since I got to Mexico! It was so good, like frozen lemonade, and a perfect compliment to the sweet prune and mandarin scoops as well as being very refreshing.

Since there was a cruise ship in port, Maz was thrumming with people, but it wasn’t overwhelming the way it would have been when I first got here. I know my way around now, so I can easily avoid crowds and most of the places I shop and eat at aren’t places the casual visitors would frequent.

Refreshed by my sorbet, I hit the dress shop, which was empty. The seamstress said she had been expecting me. The straps on the dresses are stretchy, so everyone who buys them gets at least one adjustment done. I had brought another dress to change into while she fixed this one, but she preferred to do the sewing by hand with me in the dress to make sure she got the straps perfect. The adjustment was, of course, free and she said I could come back in five years with the dress and she’d still repair it at no cost.

Then, I hit a few produce vendors and bought two kinds of mangos, to do a taste comparison. And then, it was time to meet Dale. She had only one thing on her mind, a cold beer, so I suggested we go to Olas Altas and have one last beer by the water.

You see, Dale’s meeting was with some RVers who are headed east on Tuesday towards Texas and Dale is going to tag along. She’s leaving. It’s official. I am so sad. I hope that she makes good on her promise to come visit me this summer!

By the time we got to Olas Altas, it was only 11:45. I used to order beer in Scotland from 11:00 a.m. onward, but people were still eating breakfast here and it felt way too strange to order beer! So I suggested we double back and get some pastries at Panamá for later.

When we returned to the restaurant, it was noon. We ordered beer and after perusing the menu for a few minutes Dale confessed that all she really wanted was nachos to share and that we could have chorizo on them, too. That was fine and like the last time we ordered the chorizo nachos, they came with a side of chips and salsa. So two beers, ‘lunch’ and a generous tip came to total of 150 pesos!

A well balanced Mexican diet. Hey, pico de gallo more than counts as vegetables. :)

A well balanced Mexican diet. Hey, pico de gallo more than counts as vegetables. 🙂

We both marveled at how far we’d come since our first forays into Maz. We both know our way around now, have favourite haunts, and are much, much browner than when we arrived. We both know that we are forever changed by this experience, but we have yet to understand how exactly that will translate into our lives back home.

After we rolled out of the restaurant, I insisted that we both had room for a tiny scoop of gelato since Dale had never been to the little gelataria off of Machado.  She agreed and off we went. The place was packed with cruise ship tourists. One of the servers was doing a good job with her English, but the line was moving slowly. I may have done a little translating to get some people out of there more quickly…

My favourite flavour there is Ferrero, as in Ferrero Rocher, the little wafer balls filled with Nutella. I knew that Dale likes Nutella, so I told her that I was going to order and that it was on me! I got us each a scoop in a cup. She loved it, thanked me a couple of times for pushing her to go, and agreed that there was indeed just enough place left after lunch for such a yummy and tiny treat. 🙂

She needed to get home to her dogs, so we headed back to the Mercado, where she would catch the bus. I continued on to Ley to get a few things that were on sale, including some sliced ham I discovered at Soriana that is quite good compared to the brand I find at the City Deli.

Now, I need to get to work! I thought I’d get the whole day off, but my client apparently lost leave of her math skills and sent me a huge job that I am going to scramble to do well if I don’t at least start it today. I didn’t want to refuse since I’m taking a few days off soon to go to Durango.

At least, I’ve got tons of coffee to get me through the next few days! 🙂

Turkish proverb: Black like night, strong like sin, sweet like love, hot like inferno. Used by Rico to describe their coffee!

Turkish proverb: Black like night, strong like sin, sweet like love, hot like inferno. Used by Rico to describe their coffee!

Horseback Riding, Safari, and Language Lessons

Well, it’s been another amazing day on Isla! I went riding for the second time and our one hour ride turned into TWO! Wow! We were taken all over Isla to the point that most of us were completely lost. Remember, Isla is not actually an island and there is a lot of ground to cover!

We started on the beach.

Heading onto the beach for the first part of the ride. We did lots of cantering!

Heading onto the beach for the first part of the ride. We did lots of cantering!

Love low tide on the beach.

Love low tide on the beach.

What a great surface for a canter!

What a great surface for a canter!

As if any reminders were needed that I have the best life ever. :D

As if any reminders were needed that I have the best life ever. 😀

And then we headed inland.

Heading into the coconut grove.

Heading into the coconut grove.

We saw several coati (téjón). Our guide was adamant that they are not raccoons and I look forward to telling him next week that they are in the same family as raccoons. 🙂

Fields of squash.

Fields of squash.

And then our ride turned into a safari. I wasn’t very quick with the camera, unfortunately.

We passed a turtle.

We passed a turtle.

Mrs. (?) Turtle posed for a picture.

Mrs. (?) Turtle posed for a picture.

I saw cranes and FLAMINGOS here!

I saw cranes and FLAMINGOS here!

I saw where mangoes come from!

Heading into the mango grove.

Heading into the mango grove.

It felt like a whole other world in there!

It felt like a whole other world in there!

The mangoes are just starting to come in.

The mangoes are just starting to come in.

We did some literal bushwhacking:

Heading into the bush. Our guide was ahead hacking a path with a machete!

Heading into the bush. Our guide was ahead hacking a path with a machete!

These cacti looked like an alien creature.

These cacti looked like an alien creature.

We came to a part of Isla that was once used for playing baseball.

We emerged on a flood plain.

We emerged on a flood plain.

The remains of a horse.

The remains of a horse.

More of the alien cacti.

More of the alien cacti.

Coconut graveyard.

Coconut graveyard.

We passed a people graveyard.

The old cemetery.

The old cemetery.

And came to a new graveyard. I was riding in the back and the guide yelled out “Chica that speakay Spani, comay translate!’ (with all due respect to him and his accent!). We all joked that our rides are just a cover for language lessons!

The new cemetery. The folks resting here are all immediate family of our guide.

The new cemetery. The folks resting here are all immediate family of our guide.

Those of us who had been to New Orleans were reminded of its graveyards.

Those of us who had been to New Orleans were reminded of its graveyards.

Heading back towards the main road.

Heading back towards the main road.

This truck is just like mine. It once passed me on The Road and the driver yelled out 'Hola, gemela' (Hi, twin)!

This truck is just like mine. It once passed me on The Road and the driver yelled out ‘Hola, gemela’ (Hi, twin)!

Pretty flowers at the stable.

Pretty flowers at the stable.

Pretty dang good value for 100 pesos, huh?

I’m not nearly as sore as I was last week at this time as my saddle and stirrups were much more comfortable. My horse was a little headstrong, did a lot of head tossing, and was uncomfortable to ride at walk and trot, but was soooo smooth at canter! I could have cantered all afternoon on him!

We’re riding again on Monday. Can’t wait!

Gal About Maz

I have a farmer's tan on my legs! :D

I have a farmer’s tan on my legs! 😀

I had a lunch date with Dale today, so I worked a few hours this morning and left around 11:30.

I realised this week that if I were to take the expensive beach panga, I could get picked up right at that embarcadero by the bus that goes both to the Mercado and into the Golden Zone. I have no idea what sort of time saving that would be, though, since the bus meanders. But it’s a good thing to keep in mind if my leg ever starts acting up too badly to walk far or if I have something particularly heavy to carry.

Since I need the exercise, I decided not to explore that option today and just do my usual route of village panga and walking down Gutierrez Najera, stopping for a grapefruit juice along the way, to get to a bus stop on Avenida del Mar.

For the first time, I arrived at the bus stop just as the bus was pulling in. In fact, I was a second behind it and if another passenger hadn’t bodily placed himself with one foot in the door and one foot out to force the driver to wait that second, I would have missed the bus! They really just pause rather than stop for passengers!

The bus was packed, but I found a seat and rode all the way to about a block shy of Rico’s Café. I walked there and got a pound of coffee. It was nice to get some before I got to a ‘need to count how many scoops I have left’ quantity at home. 🙂

Love is like WiFi. It's in the air, but not everyone has the key.

Love is like WiFi. It’s in the air, but not everyone has the key.

It was then a short walk to the RV park, where Dale and her boys were waiting for me. Dale has been in the Golden Zone a full month now and loves it so much that she is going to renew for another month. The location is really convenient, I’ll give it that!

I was craving a hamburger, so we went back to the same place we ate last time I visited. Service was as good as last time. We ordered a giant ‘chocomilk’ again (*smiles*). Dale got the chicken quesadillas, a good value for her as she gets three meals out of them. I got the hamburger and opted for chips and salsa to share rather than fries.

Their salsa was phenomenal! It was definitely Gringoified as it wasn’t spicy. There was chile in it, I could taste it and feel just a little heat, but nothing major. It was just perfect for me and I got to the bottom of the bowl!

My hamburger today was nowhere near as juicy and oniony as the last one I got, but it was still fantastic and I would definitely go back all the way out there for a burger even without Dale.

We then walked a bit further north so Dale could show me a stretch of beach she discovered.

Gorgeous beach day!

Gorgeous beach day!

Waves crashing on rocks make the prettiest sound.

Waves crashing on rocks make the prettiest sound.

Low tide, looking south.

Low tide, looking south.

We had fun watching the parasailers (people pulled behind a boat while wearing a parachute) and I am going to research that as it’s something I’d really like to try.

That looks like fun!

That looks like fun!

Then, something quite unexpected happened: a beach vendor actually managed to sell me something I hadn’t planned on buying! I really don’t buy a lot of jewellery, but I saw these pretty sun and moon earrings and just had to treat myself! They are very likely not real silver and I surely paid way too much money and I really don’t care. They are just gorgeous!

I love dangly earrings, but rarely indulge.

I love dangly earrings, but rarely indulge.

The vendor said they were his 'eclipse model.'

The vendor said they were his ‘eclipse model.’

The afternoon was moving on, so we headed back to the RV park to walk the dogs quickly.

Then, Dale drove me to Soriana. She had already done all her big shopping, so I told her that I was very happy for the lift and could get home on my own. We made tentative plans to meet for lunch at the Mercado on Monday.

Before going to Soriana, I stopped in at Office Depot next door to do a little research for the English school here on Isla as I am helping them make the decision for the purchase of a printer.

I’ve also been looking for an agenda since the end of December and hadn’t found one, to my immense surprise. Dale also had trouble finding a calendar. So I thought an office supply store would have agendas and all Office Depot had were quite pretty hard bound perpetual agendas for a mere 82.50 pesos. I really like those because I can start them at any date, but they are super hard to find and expensive in Canada and the US. So I came out of there quite pleased!

Soriana was next. I started by wandering around the store looking for non-food things on my list and got help finding “the white cotton things to clean your ears” since Soriana staff don’t know what Q-tips are (whatever works!).

Food-wise, I didn’t want to lug home things I can find at Ley or the City Deli, but I did find some treasures. I bought all the hummus they had (two containers *g*) and spent a full 15 minutes in the ginormous cheese section drooling.

They had everything from local Mexican cheese to cheeses imported from Quebec, France, Italy, Spain, and more! I bought some ‘Manchego’ and another one that looked hard and aged that claims to be Mexican Parmesan. I look forward to trying it out!

So I pick up a bottle of sauce to look at the ingredients and they're in Japanese... The Spanish label only had the type of sauce and the nutritional content.

So I pick up a bottle of sauce to look at the ingredients and they’re in Japanese… The Spanish label only had the type of sauce and the nutritional content.

I thought I’d come out of there with bags and bags of stuff and spend a fortune, but I spent less than 500 pesos and my four bags weren’t even all that heavy. If I wasn’t absolutely beat, I would have taken the bus to Gutierrez Najera and walked to the panga from there, but I’d done my exercise for the day and really wanted a pulmonía.

Thankfully, there was one right outside. I couldn’t get him any lower than 70 pesos, so off I went. I’ve noticed that rides from the embarcadero tend to be cheaper than rides to it, probably because it’s harder to get rides there. I really enjoyed my trip!

I’ve lugged much heavier and cumbersome bags home, so I didn’t get a pulmonía on this side. A short distance from home, I came across a guy selling giant corn on the cobs from his truck for 1.5 pesos each and bought two.

I’m now unwinding with a glass of white wine (partial payment on some work I did recently) and I’ll have to do a small job tonight. Work is sluggish, but steady!

A Weekend Off

I haven’t had a real weekend off since I arrived on Isla, a couple of days that I choose to take off rather than them being imposed, days where there is absolutely no need to be glued to my computer hoping that a last minute project will come in, and which I can truly enjoy because there are plenty of projects behind me and I know when the next ones are coming in.

I finished work around 11:30 yesterday (Friday) morning (putting in a full five hour day!) and then spent a few hours updating my professional website before giving the house a thorough cleaning. After that, I collapsed with a movie and a beer, stepping out to get some hot dogs for dinner. I went to bed early since I’d been up since 5:00.

It was 6:30 when I woke up this morning and I enjoyed the incredible luxury of fixing myself a cup of coffee and going back to bed with it! I obviously don’t bother doing that in Miranda since once I’m down that ladder, I stay down!

I stayed in bed for a good hour reading and playing games on my iPad. I finally got up, put some laundry on, took out the water bottle, brought a full bottle in, and made a ridiculously huge breakfast.

After I ate, I went over to my landlady’s house and, yay, she was finally home! I paid my rent and told her that my roof had leaked during the recent rain, just in the bathroom, and it had messed up the ceiling paint. (By the way, roof and ceiling is the same thing in Spanish, techo.)

We then discussed something important. Drum roll please… I told her I am 90% certain I want to rent this house again next winter! I’ve been looking at other options and have decided to play it safe and just come back here. I really do like the house (and location!), I have laundry and internet, and the rent, while a bit higher than I’d really like to pay, is very reasonable. She said to call her late this summer to confirm. Of course, it’ll be a shorter stay next year, five months instead of six, and so I’ll probably arrive at the end of November and then leave mid-April.

All that done, I packed up my tote bag and headed to Maz, with the plan being to visit the aquarium. I arrived on the Maz side only to realise that I had never actually looked up where the aquarium is exactly. But I’d seen plenty of signs for it and had a pretty good idea of where it was, so off I went. I’ve come a long way from the frustrated gal walking around in circles!

I took Gutiérrez Nájera towards the Malecón, got myself a grapefruit juice, and then turned northish (Golden Zonewards) one block before the Malecón. I just walked this road for quite a while, enjoying how peaceful it was. I could periodically see Avendida del Mar (what this stretch of road along the Malecón is called), so I had quite a few landmarks.

No idea what this building is, but it made me laugh.

No idea what this building is, but it made me laugh.

Detail of the exquisite doorway.

Detail of the exquisite doorway.

And then, I spotted a big blue building off in the distance.

Could that be...

Could that be…

It is!

It is!

Well, that was easy. 😀

I’ll do a separate post about the aquarium!

I came out of there after a few hours and spent two hours literally just walking aimlessly. I found myself on the Malecón, the hilly part of Centro histórico, Olas Altas, Plazuela Machado, the Mercado, and then Zaragoza, at which point I was ready to go home. I had vague plans to get lunch, but it was just too dang hot!

I did get some ice cream from my favourite vendor. I now know that it is called nieve de garrafa (English article) and is a water based fruit sorbet native to Mexico. They had pineapple today for the first time, and I got that with mandarin and prune.

One of the many papier mâché statues along the Malecón.

One of the many papier mâché statues along the Malecón.

Colourful houses on a street in the hilly part of historical Maz.

Colourful houses on a street in the hilly part of historical Maz.

A sweet little bench across the road from the Malecón.

A sweet little bench across the road from the Malecón.

Devil's Cave.

Devil’s Cave.

Well, that was anticlimactic.

Well, that was anticlimactic.

I got in around 2:45 after stopping for fresh tortillas and made a salad with some cream cheese roll ups and a beer for lunch.

It’s been a wonderful day with lots of entertainment, sun, and exercise! I’ll finish it up by getting some shrimp burritos from Miguel’s and watching a movie.

Tomorrow will be an at home day where I’ll catch up on bookkeeping and admin tasks and do a project for Contessa. None of this counts as work in my book!

Off to prepare my aquarium post. First, I need to splice together a movie!

Much Bigger Spender

I did a good morning of work and then headed to Maz to hit a bank, the big Waldo, and the big Ley, all on Ejercito Mexicano, a road I’ve now taken a few times by motorized transport, but never on foot.

map

Swabbing the deck.

Swabbing the deck.

My world was so picturesque today.

My world was so picturesque today.

Still not tired of the view.

Still not tired of the view.

I felt a little thrill as I turned onto Juan Carrasco, which becomes Ejercito Mexicano. A new area to explore! I walked for a bit, taking in all the marvelous commotion of vehicles and music and people walking, inhaled the rich smell of tacos, churros, and other goodies being cooked right on the street, and felt absolutely right with the world.

Noroeste building (major newspaper)

Noroeste building (major local newspaper)

Contessa had asked me to pick her up some croissants, so my first stop was the Panamá bakery, where they only had one left. The following conversation ensued:

Me: (pointing to croissants) Do you have more of these?

Clerk: That’s it.

Me: No more today?

Clerk (points to oven, in which I can see croissants)

Me: How long?

Clerk: Eight minutes.

NOW we’re getting somewhere! I told her I would wait and could I use the bathroom? Getting directions there was much easier to extract out of her!

When I came out, I had a bit of a wait and checked out all the wares, talking myself out of bringing anything home! Soon, the clerk was sliding the croissants out of the oven and asked me how many I wanted. I told her and she called to another clerk to ring up four croissants for me. Minutes later, I was presented with a greasy bag that smelled marvelous. Let’s just say that I added one croissant to Contessa’s order for myself and enjoyed it immediately. 🙂 There’s nothing like a fresh croissant!

Next, the bank. I played a live game of Frogger to get to the Santander, only to find that its ATMs were down. Darn! I went back across the street (the words with which to convey this death defying feat escape me) to try my luck at the HSBC. Success! Fees were comparable to Santander and I got a few small bills. I had hoped to only make one withdrawal this month to save on bank fees, but forget about my daily withdrawal limit, so I’ll take out more money later this month.

Then, I came to the Waldo’s, which is much bigger than the one in Centro. I went through and got a few things on my list, plus a little splurge for myself. Instead of looking for a manicure place today, I bought bottles of nail polish, polish remover, polish hardener, and a crystal nail file since I somehow managed to forget to bring one here and have been suffering along with emery boards that have gotten soggy in this humid climate. I haven’t done my own nails in a while, so it’ll be a fun way to relax one evening while watching a movie.

Biggish Waldo's

Biggish Waldo’s

Then, I used the impressive pedestrian overpass to cross the street and go to Ley.

Quite the climb up to this pedestrian crossing! The Ley is tucked way in the back of the parking lot.

Quite the climb up to this pedestrian crossing! The Ley is tucked way in the back of the parking lot.

As I landed on the other side, I saw a sign that said Chinese food and sushi. I knew the sushi would be terrifying (which it was), but non-Mexican food sounded very appealing. I checked out the food and combos and decided to eat there after I was given a couple of samples and they were all delicious!

The following conversation ensued.

Clerk: What can I get you?

Me: Hong Kong, please. (spring roll, rice, one dish, agua fresca)

Clerk: Bla bla bla chicken bla bla shrimp costs extra.

(Pause to let my computer process that and that this is about the spring rolls.)

Me: Oh, uh, chicken!

Clerk: Main?

Me: Mango chicken, please.

I then got foisted onto another clerk.

Clerk: Agua fresca bla bla bla bla bla hibiscus.

(Pause to decide if I want her to repeat flavours. Nah, I’ve been curious about hibiscus).

Me: Hibiscus.

Clerk: Bla bla ice?

Me: A little bit.

And then, I got passed onto the clerk and that was easy because I don’t have any trouble with numbers.

I find it hilarious how Mexicans just talk Spanish to us Gringos at full speed with no consideration whatsoever for our language skills or lack thereof! Once again, I wonder how I’d get by if I didn’t have the level of skill that I do.

Mexican Chinese food looks like American Chinese food: unappealing. It was tasty, though!

Mexican Chinese food looks like American Chinese food: unappealing. It was tasty, though!

The food was, I’m almost ashamed to say, really yummy. 🙂 The chicken wasn’t nearly as sweet as I expected and it had a bit of kick. The carrots were crispy and really good. The rice wasn’t mushy and had just enough soy sauce. The spring roll tasted strongly of cabbage and other veggies, very fresh.

hibiscus (jamaica) agua fresca (flavoured sweet water)

hibiscus (jamaica) agua fresca (flavoured sweet water)

Hibiscus water wasn’t particularly memorable, though. I expected quite a strong floral flavour and this was pretty bland. The beverage was also a lot less sweet than I expected and so I drank the whole thing.

I then hit the Ley. It is like a small Soriana or Walmart with household and personal goods in addition to groceries, but that was the only special thing about it. Otherwise, it had all the same food I can get at the smaller Ley or the City Deli, so I was rather disappointed and didn’t come out with much. I’ll definitely need to go back to Soriana! I did come home with a tub of hummus and look forward to seeing how it tastes.

Back outside, I repacked my bags and schlepped the block to Ejercito Mexicano, where I quickly flagged down a pulmonía. I was quoted a fair 40 pesos to get to the embarcadero. What a treat the drive was! I was quite tired and my shopping was heavy.

Yes, that's a motorcycle on a panga.

Yes, that’s a motorcycle on a panga.

My bags weren’t heavy enough to justify a pulmonía on this side, so I walked home, stashed the cold stuff, and went to Contessa’s to deliver her slightly smooshed croissants. She gave me some reading material for my trip to Durango next month (thank you!), so I have some reading to do in the next few days.

For the curious, today’s expenditures were about 500 pesos. 200ish at Waldo’s, 200ish at Ley, 60ish for lunch, and 40 for the drive home. So yeah, bigger spender than yesterday, but by Canadian standards, just peanuts. 🙂