Paseo Túnel de Minería, Calle Constitución, and Barrio de Analco, Durango

After the city museum, I crossed the street to enter the Paseo Túnel de Minería, a mining tunnel reproduction and museum.

Here’s one of many tourist maps you can find around Centro:

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Tunnel entrance elevator at Plaza de armas:

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It’s quite a ways down!

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I was once again told that the museum is temporarily closed and that there is instead an exhibit on child exploitation and sex trafficking. I said I still wanted to go in and they let me go down the stairs. But at the bottom, they had an English speaker (sort of — I think my Spanish was better!) make sure I really did understand what I was getting into.

The special exhibit has you start at the end. Most of the mining information stuff has been blocked off, but you can still get some of the info. Really, I wanted to do this just for the tunnel itself, so there was plenty there to make the journey worthwhile.

The tunnel was actually pretty spooky!

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There were information panels and displays all along it. Very disturbing information, of course, but informational.

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You can see here how they covered up some of the mining stuff:

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Near the end, there, there was a very powerful animated film about a young girl getting recruited through her Facebook account. I was very lucky in the early days of the Internet to never get into a situation like this! After the film, there was a man handing out information on resources for women and children caught in a bad situation and how witnesses can report things.

This wasn’t a fun part of the day at all, but I came out knowing that Mexico is working to protect the rights and liberties of its women and children, and that is something that was well worth knowing.

I came back above ground at Plaza de armas, so I decided to stroll down the pedestrian Calle Constitución to go check out the oldest neighbourhood in Durango, Barrio de Analco.

I couldn’t get enough of this building at the corner of Constitución and 5 de febrero! Love the flying buttresses!

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And the church bell!

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This bit of Calle Constitución is modeled after the Hollywood Walk of Fame, with stars for all the famous actors who have filmed something in Durango. It is a lot more attractive and cleaner than the original walk of fame. 🙂

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Finally, an actor I really like!

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There was a craft market as well as a man selling tacos from a cart. They smelled divine…

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Ah… the best actor of all time. So happy to see his name here:

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There was a bit of a park at the end of the street:

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And a pedestrian overpass that no one was using!

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The main street in the Barrio de Analco was lined with well preserved old houses, a real feast for the eyes:

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But get off the main road, and you pretty much have slum, not unlike in Maz’s own Centro:

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It still has its own charm!

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Coming back to Constitución, I thought that it would be nice to have that apartment upstairs!

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The crowd around the taco guy had dissipated a bit, so I got in line! I just wanted a snack since I had big plans for lunch. But it was just past noon (I swear time stood still in Durango) and I had a long walk to lunch, so sustenance was required! $8 for a carne asada (BBQed beef) taco, with lots of different salsas and toppings, including chopped cabbage. I liked that the seller wore a face mask and changed his gloves to handle money. I eat from carts all the time in Maz and have never been ill, but sometimes find the hygiene standards could be a bit better.

I was just about to take my first bite when a man said in perfect, but heavily accented English, “Oh, you didn’t get to Mexico yesterday!”

I turned to him, a little bewildered, and asked him what he meant. “Number one, you’re eating from a cart. Number two, you just ordered; didn’t care what he was selling. Number three, you just started piling on toppings without examining anything and when we warned you that the green stuff was spicy, you added more!”

We had a chat as I ate my very delicious taco and he asked why I picked that cart, only because it was, in his opinion, the best tacos in that part of Durango! “Easy,” I told him. “It’s the one that had the biggest crowd!”

Sated, I headed back towards 20 de noviembre for the very long walk to the Emir restaurant. I was surprised to pass a truck that had a parking ticket!

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The restaurant was very easy to find, just well past the Soriana and 5KM from my hotel according to Siri (I doubt it was really that much…). Emir is an ‘Arabic’ restaurant, the only one in Durango. Went for their mysterious (no description) ‘Lebanese platter’ (not quibbling over the fact that the Lebanese are not Arabs). Some time later, this arrived:

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Growing up in the Montreal-Ottawa corridor with its huge Lebanese population, I’m very familiar with the cuisine and disappointed by attempts made to recreate it away from that region. Oh, I sometimes scratch the itch, but I really need to go back east to reach full satisfaction. So imagine my surprise that this was by far the best, never mind most satisfying, Lebanese spread I’ve had outside of Montreal-Ottawa! In Durango, Mexico! My only disappointment was that the fried ball that looks like an American football wasn’t a falafel (but it was still delicious). I was amazed by my willpower when I turned down more pita, but caved at the offer of baklava and Turkish coffee! This was a meal I will remember for a very, very, very long time. Total cost was something like a mere $220 with the tip.

The walk back to the hotel was rather necessary and I had a nap when I got there, but that was mostly because I didn’t get much sleep the night before because of all that coffee!

My day was far, far from done!

Getting My Bearings in Durango

By the time I was settled into my hotel room, it was about 3:00 p.m. on Thursday. I decided to go out and get my bearings. That was easy to do since Durango’s Centro is laid out in a perfect grid pattern and all streets are well marked. There are also frequent maps with a ‘you are here and points of interest are here, here, and here’ being noted, as well as directional signage on all the main street corners (Plaza de armas is that way, Walk of Fame is this way, turn here for the Francisco Villa museum, etc.).

Within minutes, I knew that Durango was much more tourist friendly and accessible than Maz is and that Maz’s failures in that regard are not a reflection of Mexico, but of the Maz city planners. My Mexican education continues!

Walking a few blocks up 20 de noviembre, I found the main basilica, which is in front of Plaza de armas. I’ll just get it out right here that the architecture in Durango is gorgeous. This is a very, very, very old city (founded in 1563!!!) and the architecture reflects that, with a lot of Baroque influence.

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A block from the Plaza de armas, I spotted the Museo de la ciudad 450 (city museum), something that I knew was on my ‘must see’ list:

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I found the Mercado Gómez Palacio a few blocks later,, a bewildering and disorganized warren of stalls! Rather fun and disorienting to poke through, but I have to say that it’ll make me better appreciate Maz’s mercado! I picked up a new apron (something that was on my list to buy in Maz, so why not make it a souvenir?!). Very inexpensive, only $85.

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More oggling of architecture happened:

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I love how colourful Mexico is. I want this pink washing machine in my house in Mérida when I get there!

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And another exquisite building!

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Tacos al pastor!

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The fabric store (Parisina) is housed in not-so-shabby digs!

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Check out the McDonald’s!

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Back at Plaza de armas, I was dumbfounded to discover that this rotunda holds a tourist information bureau! I got tons of info as well as several maps. Why doesn’t Maz have anything like this?!

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Corner of Constitución and 5 de febrero:

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Vancouver Donuts on 5 de febrero!

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This is a palace that holds several cafés as well as the Francisco (Pancho) Villa Museum:

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A cappuccino sounds good… But it’s late. Maybe another time.

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I passed the Museo de arqueología (archeology) on the way back to my hotel (again, it’s right in front of the Palacio parking where Moya was staying). I was tempted to go in, but decided to save it for the next day.

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Back on 20 de noviembre on the corner of Zaragoza looking towards my hotel:

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Church across the street from my hotel:

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I love Mexican alleyways!

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Another not too ugly building!

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On the street behind my hotel, I found a used book store and couldn’t resist going in. Oh, that universal smell of old paper! I browsed a bit and then asked if they had Mexican poetry books. The owner, who must have been 100 years old, pulled out a gorgeous and huge leather-bound tome. It was only $150, but way too massive, so I asked if he had something smaller and less expensive. Without hesitating, he pulled out a slim anthology of modern Mexican poetry, for just $75. Sold!

I took my treasure and headed back to have that cappuccino! I love how Mexicans put cinnamon in their coffee! I read for quite a bit as I savoured my treat. There’s sugar in the picture, but I didn’t put any in. I only like milk in my coffee.

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I then headed back to the hotel to research dinner options. One of the best rated options in all of Durango was Fonda de la Tía Chona, just a few blocks from my hotel (but of course!). It’s next to this building, which I found very charming in a Sleeping Beauty’s castle tucked away behind the thorns kind of way:

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Here’s the outside of the restaurant:

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The menu is a bit bewildering as it’s laid out like a newspaper, with dish listings peppered between interesting articles. I ordered a XX beer and didn’t have time to order my main before I was brought free appetizers! Spicy and very yummy pickles:

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And taquitos!

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The decor was very traditional. I really like the white walls and dark wood and would like to find something like that in Mérida.

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I ordered chicken mole for dinner and am sad to say I was disappointed at what I got for the price I paid. 🙁 The food was good (although I found the stringy chicken a little rubbery), but I’ve had mole that was at least as good as this for less money. The sauce was most chocolatey mole I’ve ever had, and that’s just a statement of fact, not a value judgment. Every mole is different!

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I was on vacation, so I ordered dessert and coffee (yes, I was to regret all that late day coffee when I hit the sack!). My espresso was perfect and I was ‘disappointed’ (and by that I wasn’t) that ‘cheesecake’ in Mexico is exactly like cheesecake back home, with a Graham cracker crust and filling made from Philadelphia cream cheese. Worth the calories, let me tell you! I really don’t do dessert that often anymore and was thrilled that I was happy with this:

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Dinner was expensive, but it wasn’t, $260 (just 20CAD for beer, a main, dessert, and coffee!).

Needless to say, I needed to walk off at least part of dinner! Since my hotel was on a main street, I did not hesitate to go exploring after dark!

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I wound up back at Plaza de armas, where I found a jewelry vendor who helped me remedy the fact that I managed to leave home without any earrings! These pressed flowers behind glass were bargained down to a mere $75 and were worn all weekend!

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I continued quite a ways down 20 de noviembre to a huge Soriana to pick up bananas and water. Those of you on Facebook might remember that I posted that I got lost in it. I’m not kidding! I had to get help to find the bananas and then required an escort to get to the cash registers! Both purchases wound up making sense over the weekend, although the bananas weren’t always a morning food! The hotel gave me bottles of water every day, but I’d run out by this morning (departure day) and was glad I had more.

When I got back to the hotel, I laid out one of my maps and set to work getting a rough idea of what I wanted to see and do in my two days in Durango, although absolutely nothing was set in stone.

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I also spent some time in that squashy armchair writing in a journal about my day, hence why my memories are so clear. 🙂

Discoveries

I am heading out on a much needed mini-break tomorrow, three nights in the neighbouring city of Durango! This is the trip I postponed last year. I think I will enjoy myself more this year, being more comfortable in Mexico, less concerned about the truck, and not facing snow. I’m losing a shift because of the American Thanksgiving, so I’m taking advantage of that to be able to go have a few days in Durango and still be home (most likely) for riding and my dentist appointment on Monday.

There is a possible big storm incoming, but I’m not too worried about that. The absolute worst case scenario is that the Durango-Maz road will be washed out by mudslides and I won’t be able to get home as planned on Sunday. Solution: alter my plans to include bring my computer (which I otherwise have no intention of looking at all weekend) so that if I do get stuck into the work week, I can just work from wherever I am. The second worst case scenario is that the Isla road could be washed out. Solution: park my truck on the Maz side and take the panga over, then go get my truck when the road is clear. I’m not getting my ‘DON’T GO’ prickly feeling at the back of my neck, so I’m leaving on schedule sometime late tomorrow morning!

I therefore needed to do a withdrawal before heading out. There is actually a Scotiabank right by my hotel in Durango, but I didn’t want to have to look for it upon arrival tomorrow, having only enough cash to cover fuel and tolls to get there, plus spending money, but not enough to pay for the hotel room. So after my shift today, I headed to town. I had just pulled into the Maz-side embarcadero when I suddenly felt unwell and realised that I hadn’t eaten anything since about 7:00! So I got out of the lancha and made a beeline for the pan dulce lady, picking up a tasty bun of some sort for $5, which did the trick.

Normally, I would just walk down Gutiérrez Nájera and turn right on Juan Carrasco, but today I decided to turn right much sooner and meander through a residential neighbourhood. I had a route to get to Ejercito Mexicano, but, of course, that didn’t work out because of no road signage, construction, and landmark closures. No biggie. I just wandered in the generally correct direction. The houses were a mix of what I would consider tenements and really nice structures, making it hard to get a feeling for just what sort of neighbourhood this was, economically speaking (much like Isla). The few people I passed on the street were friendly.

Just as I was bitterly regretting not popping into the last abarrotes I had seen to get a water, I spotted an oasis, a fruit juice stand! That was a pretty good clue that I was very near Juan Carrasco/Ejercito Mexicano. I ordered a small grapefruit juice with ice and was told to pay the ‘special’ price of just $10! Wow! I pay $15 to $18 for a juice in Centro and near the Malecón. Two blocks from there was Ejercito Mexicano, so now I have a juice place that is almost on my route to the bank, big Ley, and big Waldo. Getting misplaced paid off!

I ended up just a couple of blocks from the Scotiabank, so I darted across right away when the traffic cleared. For once, the machine worked perfectly for me. I then went inside to change my $500s for smaller bills, and I’d even written down how many $100s, $50s, and, especially $20s, I needed. The exchange rate is getting worse and worse. November 12th, 4,800 cost me 392.39CAD. November 23rd, they cost me 399.00CAD. Today, they cost me 399.80 CAD. My daily withdrawal limit is just 400CAD, so I cut it really close today!

After I was done at the bank, I debated going up to the big Ley to have lunch at the Chinese place and decided it was too hot to do that extra distance. I headed back towards Gutiérrez Nájera, only this time I walked on the Scotiabank side. It’s amazing the new things you discover when you walk on the other side of the street!

I passed a couple of interesting shops and then a tiny restaurant advertising sushi and Chinese food, a similar setup to the restaurant by the big Ley. I popped in and had a look at the food on display, which appeared very fresh. The exact same meal that I have at the other place was a couple of pesos cheaper and, overall, better! I didn’t like the main quite as much (the chicken was a little mushy versus crispy), but the hibiscus water, rice, and spring roll were tastier. So now, I have a better (and closer!) place to get  Chinese food when I get a craving for it! Never mind the sushi, though. These stores have Mexican-style sushi (very heavy on the cream cheese), which is not to my taste. I prefer to pay more and have it on Olas Altas or in the Golden Zone, where I can get more authentic fare and super inexpensive octopus nigiri.

I passed this hilarious sign in front of a bar on Gutiérrez Nájera:

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Roughly translated:

Husband Daycare
Does it get heavy around the house?
Does he bother you?
Do you need a break?
We have what you’re looking for!
Leave your husband here and pick him up later!
It’s free. Just pay for his drinks!
We have never lost anyone!

(That last bit especially cracked me up.)

So I’m off tomorrow. I don’t know how vocal I’ll be over the weekend since I’ll be avoiding the computer. I will check in on Facebook now and then.

A Day Full of Treasures

I decided to split up the work due tomorrow so that I could take this afternoon and tomorrow morning off. I wanted to go to town to try a restaurant, the reviews for which I stumbled upon on Trip Advisor, and also go to the bank and the grocery store. Tomorrow is riding, of course. 🙂

I wound covering a lot of ground today! Here’s a bird’s eye view (click to embiggen).

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I started by walking from the embaracadero to Parisina in Centro (red line at the bottom). Parisina is a chain of fabric stores. I wanted something to cover the surfaces in the office because, surprise, a plastic table cloth was unsuitable to cover a desk in a hot humid climate! I forgot just how inexpensive fabric is in Mexico and realised as I browsed that I didn’t have to get something that would to have have another purpose later because I would be paying so little.

I wound up with some super cheap cotton in colours that sort of match the bedspreads on the twin beds in the office:

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I love the purple flowers and that’s quite probably my favourite shade of blue. It was only $40 (3.25CAD or 2.50USD) for two metres! Aesthetics were the only reason to cover the tables. This house is like a prison, with its neutral colours and the bars on the windows, so it’s proven very difficult to make it cozy and homey. This year, I’m adding colour where I can and that is making a huge difference to how happy I am in the house.

I then crossed the street (Benito Juárez) to catch the bus to the Golden Zone. The Sábalo-Cocos ‘local’ bus passed before the ‘tourist’ bus that goes up Avenida del Mar and that was my sign that it was finally time to figure out this bus route because it’s the one that goes by the big Waldo and passes Soriana (multiple ones, I was to learn), Home Depot, and Mega. The ‘local’ buses are super uncomfortable, with hard plastic seats that are so close to the ones in front that my knees are bruised from the ride, but the cost is only $7 versus the $10 for the tourist bus.

Go back up to the map to see the ride I got taken on (blue)! It was a long one, but very educational. What really impressed me is that I knew where I was at all times and was able to correctly guess when we were about to turn onto Rafael Buelna. Now, I know that I can catch this bus at the big Ley or Waldo, or even Soriana or Mega, and take it back down to Juan Carrasco/Gutiérrez Najera if I have only a bit of shopping and don’t mind walking from the intersection to the embarcadero. But the route is way too long to make it worth taking it back from Soriana or Mega with a ton of groceries.

Once we hit Camarón Sábalo, I knew to get off in the vicinity of Panamá so I could head to Playa Gaviotas.

I’ve seen the ads for this guy a few times. I doubt his name is truly Dr. Backman, but, then again, I once knew an electrician named Yvan Laprise (literally sounds like the French for “he sells the electrical outlet”), so who knows!

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The restaurant didn’t open till 1:00 and it was about 12:30, so I wandered around in super touristy Mazatlán, saying “No gracias” a lot to vendors.

Being so early, I decided to check out the “Seashell Museum” (Museo de Conchas), which is really a store full of tchotchkes, with some tiny exhibits upstairs. But you HAVE to go there because of the fountain! I think I stared at it for a full 10 minutes and I’m very annoyed I only had my crappy iPhone camera to capture it!

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That fountain is a Work of Art. I couldn’t find an inch of it that didn’t absolutely delight me. If I were ever to buy a home by the sea, I would commission an artist to build something like this with seashells for me, perhaps a bathroom counter.

Then, I wandered around in the general area looking for the restaurant, Zab Thai. The address and the claim that it is near the Seashell Museum helped me narrow things down a bit, but it was extremely hard to find. I asked a few people, but no one could be bothered to help if I wasn’t a customer. I finally had the bright idea of putting other businesses into Google so I could essentially triangulate the location I needed and found Zab Thai at the end of a very lonely looking alley:

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An alley that leads to a beach:

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An alley that holds another business named “Lucky Bastard”!

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I went into the restaurant, which had an English menu but a server who was quite happy to serve me in Spanish. They had just opened and I was the only one there. They apparently do more takeout than eat-in business. The reviews I’d read claimed that Zab Thai is the place to go for authentic Thai in Maz.

I just ordered the chicken Pad Thai, but asked for two stars of spiciness out of three (!) and, for the first time, requested no egg. Pad Thai is something that I crave all the time, but which I haven’t had much luck finding to my taste in quite a while. I can’t articulate what it is about Pad Thai that makes it to my taste or not, I just know what I like.

When the meal arrived, it was alarmingly red:

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(I can’t believe I’m still traumatized by that ketchupy Pad Thai I had on Jarvis Street in Toronto 15 years ago! :D)

I took a tentative bite and almost fell out of my seat. This Pad Thai was perfect. The flavours were just right and I think the red might have come from Sriracha, with the spice level being just right for me. When it was a bit too much, I nibbled on some of the cabbage. I do have to say the chicken was a bit bland, but that’s just being nitpicky. I can’t believe I found this meal in Mexico. I’m pretty sure this Pad Thai is the third best I’ve ever had, after the ones at Siam or Bangkok Palace in Ottawa, Ontario, and the one at the Starfire in Skagway, Alaska! Pad Thai with chicken or pork was just $95! I think with shrimp or a mix was $115. Either price is a bargain for such a great Pad Thai. I find it interesting that two of the best I’ve ever had have been in such tourist trappy-type destinations.

Then, it was time to go to the bank (red route at the top). On the way, I passed this place that has never been open before and so I’ve never noticed it:

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That’s a drive-thru beer pickup place, folks. And I thought ‘Muricans are ridiculous (and terrifying) for having drive-thru liquor stores…

I cut across the McDonald’s parking lot and came across this RV from France!

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I actually waited a few minutes, hoping to catch the drivers, but gave up.

The walk-in ATM at Scotiabank was down, but, thankfully, their drive-thru one worked. My landlady is going to be so happy to get her December rent early. I don’t think I paid December rent till the 15th or even 20th last year (which I had told her on the day I moved in and she was okay with).

Look at what Soriana had: LEMONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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But check out the price compared to the little round limes:

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The Persian limes that look like green lemons were $14 a kilo, still a much better deal. That picture was worse than the one above. I have no idea how people take lovely pictures with their iPhones…

I decided to take a chance and buy some meat (went with hamburger) and saw this in the freezer. I don’t think I’ve ever seen rabbit sold at the grocery store before!

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One of the things on my list was chocolate almond milk for a recipe, but they didn’t have any on the shelf, which surprised me since the little Ley has it and Soriana had every iteration of the plain. A store clerk tapped me on the shoulder, had me turn around, pointed to a pallet in the centre of the aisle, and told me they were having a two-for-one sale on almond milk, one plain bundled with one chocolate!!! $44 for two containers was a steal! I started stocking almond milk last summer for cereal and am glad it’s so inexpensive, even here in Mexico, since I’ll be able to use it to make fruit smoothies!

From Soriana, I took a taxi (green) back to the embaradero. I decided to walk home on this side, sorely underestimating how heavy my shopping was (thanks to the beer I bought in town, which I’ve never done, because I knew the City Deli would be closed, and the almond milk). But there was a ton of traffic (possible funeral procession), so I actually wound up getting home faster than I would have in a taxi, even with all my rest stops!

It’s been a rich, full day!

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I decided to go to town for a walk and lunch today. I took the village lancha and, while waiting for it, witnessed a man making ‘horns’ behind his wife’s head as someone else took a picture of them. Witnesses to this burst out laughing and she called out, “What did he do?!” which just made us laugh harder.

There was a huge cruise ship in port today:

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On the Maz side, I walked down Emilio Barragán nearly all the way to the embarcadero for the beach lancha, turning at the entrance to the cruise ship docks to follow the blue line to Centro. It was rather funny to see all the pulmonías spilling out of the docks!

I got to the big intersection that for some reason doesn’t have a tope or any incentive to get the cross traffic to stop, no matter how much tourist traffic there is there. A few police officers were guiding people and one came up to me. We had this conversation in English:

Cop: What are you looking for?
Me: Nothing. I’m heading to Machado. I live here.
Cop (taking a moment to process that): You live here and don’t need help?
Me: Not at all.
Cop: Thank God!

I guess the tourists have been keeping the police busy!

At the Plazuela…

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…I headed straight to Beach Burger, where I was greeted with a hug and cheek kiss from the server, who wanted to know how long I’d been back in Maz and was I still living on Isla and was there at a lot of snow at my house in Canada? I hadn’t even sat down yet! I should make a note that I only went to Beach Burger perhaps four or five times last year, at the absolute most! Perhaps he remembers me because I speak Spanish with him?

I ordered a Tecate and their Wipe Out burger, asking for no fries. He winked and said, “Okay, lots of fries.” I said, “No, I don’t need them!” and he laughed and offered to bring me a salad instead. Great! And then I had to refuse the chips and salsa!

The salad was made with hearts of romaine, not iceberg (!!!), and had a really nice dressing. It might not look like much, but I would have that as a main with some croutons and cheese, it was that yummy. The burger was great, too, and it had tons of Montreal steak spice, which I love. The price has gone up to $90, but it’s still very good value.

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An email came in while I was eating and it was an urgent message from a member of my proofing team asking me to please look over a short document. Thankfully, it was something I could do properly from my phone, so I fired off a response. My colleague replied, “Thanks! Must be nice to be off work before 4:00!”

I answered, “I start at 8:00 your time.”

To which she replied, “Oh! That’s 6:00 a.m. for you!!! I’m not even up then! Wow. I’d be off before 4:00, too!”

I really love my schedule, by the way. It’s not painful at all!

I stopped for a gelato after my lunch and then slowly meandered my way back to the embarcadero since I didn’t have any shopping to do.

I love how something so mundane as taking a walk and having lunch is blog worthy in my Mexican life!