The Dawson City Free Store

A colleague and I took a mini road trip this afternoon and went shopping at the Dawson City Free Store, a euphemism for the Dawson City… dump. 😀

Dump diving seems to be a northern sport, with the dump in Yellowknife, NWT, being the most famous. I wasn’t surprised that Dawson City has one. In a town with few stores, it makes sense that there is a reuse/recycle mentality.

People drop off usable things in a reasonably weather-proof location and can pick through what’s there. What impressed me the most was the mountain of clothes. I found five perfectly good and very pretty tops. My colleague left with a huge pile of items, including a very stylish and perfectly good winter parka. She also found a much needed table and chair and some kitchen items. With the table strapped to my roof rack, it was obvious where we’d been tonight. 😀

There are people who would turn up their noses at ‘shopping at the dump’, but I’m not one of them. I love going through flea markets, used clothing stores, and garage sales to find unique items not available in the big box stores. There is also absolutely no ‘gross factor’ in shopping at the Dawson City Free Store; the reusable items are far away from the household waste.

The free store is open noon to 7pm, Tuesday to Saturday.

Good Thing I Didn’t Come For the Gold

Gold was the theme of the day.

Claim No. 6

The mosquitoes at Discovery Claim sure hit the jackpot with me today! 😀

It was the discovery of gold at this claim on Bonanza Creek that launched the Gold Rush of 1898. Today, you can park at the claim site and stroll down to the water to try your hand at panning for gold. I borrowed a pan and shovel from work and had fun spending about a half hour playing in the mud before the mosquitoes and frozen ground chased me away. I’m pretty sure I struck iron pyrite based on the number of gold-coloured flakes lying at the bottom of my pan. There is no way I am going to even think that they might have been real gold. 🙂

Dredge No. 4

Dredge No. 4 was one of several barges (set in man-made lakes) used to mine for gold from the 1930’s to the 1960’s.  How they work is a bit complicated to explain without actually being on site, but I’ll try. I’d say the nearest comparison is a mechanical shovel:

The dredge works on a similar pivot-system and has a thingamabob sticking out of it like the shovel of the digger. This thingamabob gobbles up all the gravel and dirt in front of it in a wide radius and sends it into the bowels of the dredge to be processed for gold. When all the gravel and dirt has been eaten, the dredge moves ahead. It spits out its back the unusable rock forming the Klondike’s famous rock piles called ‘tailings.’ I was surprised to learn that only four men where needed to operate these behemouths. That figure is misleading, however, since a ‘dredge camp’ had more than 100 employees.

The method for mining gold in the Klondike appears to be quite different than in Val d’Or, but this might be because of the permafrost here. There seems to be a lot of tourmaline and quartz in the tailings, so I think we can assume that Klondike miners are looking for the same thing as Val d’Or miners, but have a different way of getting at it.

Dredge no. 4 sank into muck in the sixties and in the eighties the decision was made to salvage it. Work on that project did not start until the early nineties. The lower level had been stuck in silt and ice for almost thirty years by this point, but the structure still came out mostly intact! They were even able to salvage the old floors. What impressed me the most, thought, was that the mechanical parts that had been buried for so long still worked perfectly.

Parks Canada now manages the site and gives a very good hour and fifteen minute tour ending with a ten minute video presentation of the raising of the barge. Well worth a visit!

The statistic I remember best from the tour is something I haven’t been able to confirm or deny. Apparently, Dawson City was the third city in North America to get electrical power after Chicago and Montreal. If that’s the case, I am very impressed!

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tools of the trade

tools of the trade

Bonanza Creek, cold as hell, yellow as gold

Bonanza Creek, cold as hell, yellow as gold

at one point, I realised that my toes were turning blue, the ground and water were so cold!

at one point, I realised that my toes were turning blue, the ground and water were so cold!

Dredge No. 4 (this is a BARGE!)

Dredge No. 4 (this is a BARGE!)

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thick cables!

thick cables!

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clutches

clutches

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view of the manmade lake from the winch room (highest level of the dredge we can visit)

view of the manmade lake from the winch room (highest level of the dredge we can visit)

emergency stop button (and my feet, again)

emergency stop button (and my feet, again)

sluice boxes

sluice boxes

these were buried in silt under ice for almost forty years and STILL WORK!

these were buried in silt under ice for almost forty years and STILL WORK!

planks from 1939/1940, buried in silt and covered by ice for almost 40 years! (and, of course, my feet)

planks from 1939/1940, buried in silt and covered by ice for almost 40 years! (and, of course, my feet)

this shot really shows that the dredge is a big boat

this shot really shows that the dredge is a big boat

driving home along Bonanza Creek Road

driving home along Bonanza Creek Road

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Countdown to the Chilkoot

This time and day next month, I will be camped out at the Chilkoot trailhead in Dyea, Alaska.

I have cranked up my training and am now hiking several hours a day. My job keeps me on my feet and moving all day, so the length of my shift determines the length of my hike and how strenuous it will be. Tonight was the first time I added a proper pack, weighing in at 25lbs, half of what I was told to prepare for on the Chilkoot. I spent two hours hiking about eight kilometres, including getting halfway up to Crocus Bluff, which is some pretty darn steep terrain!

An average day on the trail will be 10.6 kilometres, with the longest and most difficult day being that of the summit climb. My goal for the next four weeks is to keep climbing the dome with a progressively heavier pack. A few days before I’m set to leave for Whitehorse, the hiking group will be going all the way to the top and I was invited to do the climb with my full Chilkoot pack. The guide as well as a gal at the visitors’ centre who have done the Chilkoot before, say that if I can get to the top of the dome with my pack I will be able to deem myself ready.

Right now, my pack is filled with nonsense–sheets, towels, a 4L jug of water, and cans of food. When I increase to 30lbs, I will start to add my proper Chilkoot gear. My goal is to leave here with full supplies and a pack weighing no more than 20lbs seeing as I will need to add a tent, sleeping pad, cooking gear, and food when I meet up with the group in July. I won’t be able to control how heavy that stuff is, so the only way I can ensure myself a pack weighing less than 50lbs is to bring as little myself. We’ll see how realistic that 20lbs goal is. I backpacked around Scotland for a month in ’98 (um, the more recent ’98, not the ’98 of the Gold Rush! 😀 ) with a pack weighing 30lbs and I was ready for all weather.

Speaking of packs, I’ve gone back and forth over which one to bring with me and have decided that although it is a bit small, I’m going to aim for the same pack I took to Scotland. It’s moulded to my body by this point, sturdy, and lightweight. It was suggested we bring packs with an internal frame so that all our gear could be packed into the bag, but I cannot get used to the weight distribution of such a pack. So, a dry run at getting the pack filled is necessary in case I have to go emergency pack shopping in Whitehorse.

Looking at our itinerary tonight, it does not send shivers down my spine the way that it did back in February, so I’d say I’m making progress!

Dawson’s Cemeteries

I hiked back up to Crocus Bluff today to get in some Chilkoot training and also to explore the numerous Dawson City cemeteries along Mary McLeod Road. There is a much less exhausting way of getting up there, of course, straight up King Street, which becomes Mary McLeod. Park at the Crocus Bluff Recreation Area parking lot and prepare for some slight uphill strolling.

There are several cemeteries in Dawson City, one for Catholics, one for Jews, one for Masons, one for the general public, a new one for the general public (since the older one is filled up), one for the NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) and one of the members of the Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers).

In the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century, it was very expensive to have marble brought up the Yukon River on a barge, so grave markers tended to be plain crosses painted white black lettering. Much of the markings have worn off now, but historians and family members have managed to identify a surprising number of graves. It would be easy to spend a full day exploring the cemeteries, there is so much of interest.

The weight of history was very heavy and I sort of melancholy overtook me as I respectfully made my way through the cemeteries. What struck me the most was how the majority of the graves were of people born a world away. In fact, no one is born in Dawson City today. Expecting mothers are flown to Whitehorse.

The Dawson Visitors’ Centre has a booklet about the cemeteries containing information about some of the more interesting graves. Much of the info in the following gallery is quoted from this guide. Let me add that the booklet is written with a tone of affection and respect, like the author knew and loved the people he or she was writing about.

This evening, guests asked me where they could find the cemeteries, so my timing in going there today was perfect!

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Catholic cemetery

Catholic cemetery

age 3 days

age 3 days

old marker with new

old marker with new

born in Buenos Aires, died in the wilds of Canada

born in Buenos Aires, died in the wilds of Canada

Nolasque "Jack" Tremblay, a respected and admired "Grand Old Man." His wife Émilie opened up a ladies shop.

Nolasque “Jack” Tremblay, a respected and admired “Grand Old Man.” His wife Émilie opened up a ladies shop.

Emma Woods, a member of Dawson's sizable black community.

Emma Woods, a member of Dawson’s sizable black community.

Merilda St. Pierre whose marker is now home to woodpeckers

Merilda St. Pierre whose marker is now home to woodpeckers

Mainville Twins, Arthur & Albert, who died within days of each other of 'summer complaint' (probably dehydration). Their parents had lost another young child 17 months prior.

Mainville Twins, Arthur & Albert, who died within days of each other of ‘summer complaint’ (probably dehydration). Their parents had lost another young child 17 months prior.

a recent grave; what a lovely resting spot

a recent grave; what a lovely resting spot

interesting grave marker

interesting grave marker

Jack and Hazel Meloy. This pioneer couple, the last of their kind, epitomized the spirit of rugged independence and self-reliance.

Jack and Hazel Meloy. This pioneer couple, the last of their kind, epitomized the spirit of rugged independence and self-reliance.

Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers) Cemetery

Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers) Cemetery

Jan Welzl. This intelligent eccentric was an explorer, inventor and author. He was born in Czechoslovakia and led a life of adventure and discovery across the north. Each year small delegations of followers visit this site to conduct memorial services.

Jan Welzl. This intelligent eccentric was an explorer, inventor and author. He was born in Czechoslovakia and led a life of adventure and discovery across the north. Each year small delegations of followers visit this site to conduct memorial services.

interesting grave marker!

interesting grave marker!

NWMP cemetery (these men died young!)

NWMP cemetery (these men died young!)

NWMP cemetery

NWMP cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the sad state of the Jewish cemetery, with only one grave marked

the sad state of the Jewish cemetery, with only one grave marked

The names of the Jews buried in the Jewish cemetery

The names of the Jews buried in the Jewish cemetery

Solomon Packer was a popular merchant who owned a hardware store on Front Street and passed away at the age of 57. He was a member of the Y.O.O.P. but chose to be buried in the cemetery of his faith.

Solomon Packer was a popular merchant who owned a hardware store on Front Street and passed away at the age of 57. He was a member of the Y.O.O.P. but chose to be buried in the cemetery of his faith.

these ropes are the only thing identifying the final resting place of Dawson's Jewish dead other than Solomon Packer

these ropes are the only thing identifying the final resting place of Dawson’s Jewish dead other than Solomon Packer

water barrel

water barrel

water barrel

water barrel

a lovely inscription

a lovely inscription

recent grave

recent grave

Joe Vogler led a movement for a "free Alaska." He sought secession from the U.S. and the joining together of Alaska with Yukon and part of northern British Columbia to become a separate county with laws favourable to miners. Although an American, he vowed he would never be buried in Alaska until it was free.

Joe Vogler led a movement for a “free Alaska.” He sought secession from the U.S. and the joining together of Alaska with Yukon and part of northern British Columbia to become a separate county with laws favourable to miners. Although an American, he vowed he would never be buried in Alaska until it was free.

A modern-day tragedy. When 76-year old François became gravely ill in their cabin on upper Bonanza in December of 1977, 65-year-old Zdenka set out on foot to seek help "in extremely cold weather." She was found frozen to death on the trail very near a neighbour who could have helped them. When the search party arrived at the cabin, they found François had also died. They were (and still are) missed by the mining community.

A modern-day tragedy. When 76-year old François became gravely ill in their cabin on upper Bonanza in December of 1977, 65-year-old Zdenka set out on foot to seek help “in extremely cold weather.” She was found frozen to death on the trail very near a neighbour who could have helped them. When the search party arrived at the cabin, they found François had also died. They were (and still are) missed by the mining community.

water barrel

water barrel

Otokichi Arami, born in Japan, died at age 36 in August of 1901. His death was not reported in the local newspaper and little is known of him. However, he was not forgotten as this marker was erected in July 1904 by H. U. Matsumoto, relationship unknown.

Otokichi Arami, born in Japan, died at age 36 in August of 1901. His death was not reported in the local newspaper and little is known of him. However, he was not forgotten as this marker was erected in July 1904 by H. U. Matsumoto, relationship unknown.

English translation

English translation

the English translation is hidden behind this door

the English translation is hidden behind this door

Ruth Mellish, aged 13

Ruth Mellish, aged 13

A Question of Residency

With the way Canadian law is currently written, I have no choice but to have a real, physical ‘homebase.’ I also need to spend six months in one province or territory in order to meet the eligibility requirements for health care.

I knew from the get go that Quebec was not going to be my homebase, the reasons for which I’ll get into shortly. My new homebase needed to meet the following criteria:

1) low taxes;
2) low automotive registration fees;
3) low insurance rates;
4) easy to get to;
5) have a positive attitude towards itinerant workers and lots of work for them.

Quebec loses on all points but the 4th. Same thing with Ontario. British Columbia meets criteria 4 and 5. Alberta might have been good nine months ago, but the economy is tanking and is now risky. Manitoba was a good option for the first four points, but I wasn’t convinced about 5. Scratch the Maritimes since they can’t keep their own workers and don’t need new ones. Scratch Nunavut for being inaccessible by vehicle (kind of important for me). Scratch the Northwest Territories for point number 4. So, that left me with Saskatchewan and Yukon. Saskatchewan lost on item 5 while Yukon lost on item 4. However, Saskatchewan lost full points for 5 while Yukon lost only half points for 4. Yukon is far, but it’s not hard to get to, and the northern tax benefits would cover my gas each way every year.

So, while it seems that I picked Yukon residency for the novelty, it’s actually the most logical and sensible choice!

I chose Dawson City for my new permanent address for the simple reason that PO boxes are free here and I shouldn’t have issues with not having a ‘physical’ address as there is no such thing in Dawson. I’m not sure yet how I’ll handle mail when I’m not in town, but I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

I’m not scheduled to work tomorrow, so I’ll go into town and get information on what I need to do to get my Yukon driver’s licence, vehicle registrations, and health card. It’s going to be a long process, but I have a feeling it’ll be less tedious than was my return from Ontario to Quebec. We’ll see. 🙂