Summer Status Update

This summer has thus far not been what I signed up for, but it’s been okay, and much better now that I have two and a half days off next week! I’ll not only be able to knock a couple more places off my bucket list, but also get some paint to start the decorating portion of the makeover!

Speaking of painting, I’ve been doing our bathroom floors as a special, after hours project. Which explains why it’s 10PM and I’m off to change into my paint-soaked gear, something that tends to confuse those used to seeing me look presentable in a skirt and tee-shirt. πŸ™‚

My biggest accomplishment in the past six weeks has been the learning of one little phrase: ein dollar fΓΌr drei minuten. As in our showers take $1 for 3 minutes and we have a lot of German tourists who have a hard time understanding that. It took only two tries for me to get the phrase down pat, according to my very nice German teachers RVing here in their German-plated dump-truck style RV. πŸ™‚

It’s been a pretty mundane and ho-hum super crazy busy summer so far, with the weather not being nearly as good as it was last year, but I am in good spirits. I’m in the Klondike, my business is booming, and there is so much going on behind the scenes that I sometimes find myself smiling at the most inappropriate moments. As my friend Croft says, life is good!

La Table on 5th

La Table on 5th is the best restaurant in Dawson and quite possibly in all of the Yukon. It is attached to the Aurora Inn, which offers the finest accommodation in Dawson. To say it’s out of my budget is putting it mildly.

Well, I was invited to dine with someone at La Table tonight, so I got a chance to see what the fuss is all about. Oh. My. The offerings are the difference between ‘cooking’ and ‘cuisine.’

We started by splitting the ‘summer salad’, which had spinach, endive, pear, walnuts, and gorgonzola. That would make a meal unto itself. There’s nothing like the salty-sweet pairing of pears and gorgonzola with nuts for crunch!

As a main course, my companion had beef, potatoes dauphinoise, spinach, and red onion compote. I had the butternut squash gnocchi which came in a creamy goat cheese sauce sprinkled with pancetta and topped with spinach, roasted asparagus, and roasted red peppers. Divine.

We then had a 12 year old whisky (Scotch!), a Glenlivet, which is one of my favourites as it is so smooth and peaty. My companion made an honest effort but didn’t enjoy the drink at all. I loved the look on the server’s face when I said I wanted it neat, a look I always get when I order whisky neat. Heck, if I’m going to drink something with that kind of a price tag I don’t want it watered down! As an aside, that’s what uskeba (in my email address) means, whisky that is. I created the word as an anglicised version of usquebaugh, or whisky. πŸ˜‰

The meal ended with a ‘dessert tester’–mango pineapple compote, chocolate volcano-type cake with strawberry coulΓ©, and their version of tiramisu (which was like no tiramisu I’ve ever had). All were delicious. πŸ™‚

Service at La Table is personal, unhurried, and attentive which, together with the fine offerings from the kitchen, make the La Table experience worth the price tag. Dining there tonight was a treat I would hope to repeat one day.

The Dawson City Museum

Curiosity got the best of me this afternoon and I decided to use my break to check out the Dawson City Museum. As side note, this was the first time I had to pay admission to a Dawson attraction. The fee is $9 for adults, but I was given the student rate of $7.50. Even at nine bucks, I wouldn’t have squawked!

The museum is housed in the old Territorial Administration Building and contains enough exhibits to occupy an hour or two. It is the ubiquitous museum found in capital cities that discusses the history of the area from prehistoric times to today.

when gazing upon this magnificent structure, remember that in the early 1900's, Dawson was the largest city west of Winnipeg and north of San Francisco, and was the Territorial capital!

when gazing upon this magnificent structure, remember that in the early 1900s, Dawson was the largest city west of Winnipeg and north of San Francisco, and was the Territorial capital!

"By 1900 most of the rough edges of early Dawson had disappeared."

“By 1900 most of the rough edges of early Dawson had disappeared.”

descriptions of the routes to the goldfields

descriptions of the routes to the goldfields

Plaque about Percy Dewolfe, 'The Iron Man of the North' who for 35 years carried mail between Dawson and Eagle, AK

Plaque about Percy Dewolfe, ‘The Iron Man of the North’ who for 35 years carried mail between Dawson and Eagle, AK

Percy Dewolfe. There is a dog sled race held in his honour every year.

Percy Dewolfe. There is a dog sled race held in his honour every year.

Plaque supporting my earlier claim of the importance of Dawson in the early 20th century.

Plaque supporting my earlier claim of the importance of Dawson in the early 20th century.

When a telegraph wire finally linked Dawson and Lake Bennett, Dawson had contact with the outside world and the newspaper industry boomed.

When a telegraph wire finally linked Dawson and Lake Bennett, Dawson had contact with the outside world and the newspaper industry boomed.

I've written before about the British Bank of North America and how it started in a tent. This is what the tent looked like. :)

I’ve written before about the British Bank of North America and how it started in a tent. This is what the tent looked like. πŸ™‚

the money sent to fund the bank was stamped with DAWSON or YUKON to identify it in case of a hold up

the money sent to fund the bank was stamped with DAWSON or YUKON to identify it in case of a hold up

a couple of panels about the geological history of Dawson, which neglects to mention how man and his dredges created the landscape we see today

a couple of panels about the geological history of Dawson, which neglects to mention how man and his dredges created the landscape we see today

the North West Mounted Police kept law and order in Dawson; there was very little violent crime

the North West Mounted Police kept law and order in Dawson; there was very little violent crime

description of placer mining, as opposed to the type of mining done in Val D'or, QC (my first stop on my RVing journey)

description of placer mining, as opposed to the type of mining done in Val D’or, QC (my first stop on my RVing journey)

:)

πŸ™‚

interpreters demonstrating a 'rocker box'

interpreters demonstrating a ‘rocker box’

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$20 worth of gold!

$20 worth of gold!

this was my favourite part of the museum

this was my favourite part of the museum

plaque discussing how museums often only display the best stuff

plaque discussing how museums often only display the best stuff

rows and rows of artefacts, awesome

rows and rows of artefacts, awesome

there was a large exhibit about prostitution in Dawson

there was a large exhibit about prostitution in Dawson

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entrance to the courtroom

entrance to the courtroom

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the courtroom is still used every few months when the circuit judge comes

the courtroom is still used every few months when the circuit judge comes

plaque about the history of the Territorial Administration Building and its architectural style (typical of the era)

plaque about the history of the Territorial Administration Building and its architectural style (typical of the era)

a grand old staircase; typical of the government building architecture in Dawson in the early 20th century

My trip to the museum answered one of the most burning questions I have been pondering about placer mining: why were shafts dug in the winter when the ground had to be thawed. Surely, that was a lot of work! The answer is that by digging in the winter, the miners didn’t need to build supports for the shafts.

The Dawson City Museum is a respectable institution that offers good value for the admission charge. It sums up most of the other attractions and is probably the one thing you should see if you only have an afternoon in Dawson. But, oh, what a shame that would be. πŸ™‚

I still have quite a few attractions left to see, but am glad that I have now nailed down all the big ones!

Improvements to the 9th Ave and Lookout Trails

The Dawson parks and recreation folks have been busy making wonderful improvements to the 9th Ave and Lookout Trails. I borrowed Oz this afternoon and set off for the Lookout to see what was the same and what was different.

Oz all gussied up in his new harness

Oz all gussied up in his new harness

these stairs lead up from the ninth ave trail to Mary McLeod Road, a vast improvement over a slippery almost vertical slope!

these stairs lead up from the ninth ave trail to Mary McLeod Road, a vast improvement over a slippery almost vertical slope!

the trailhead for the Lookout Trail used to be very hard to locate, but now there's no mistaking it

the trailhead for the Lookout Trail used to be very hard to locate, but now there’s no mistaking it

looking down the Yukon River towards Alaska

looking down the Yukon River towards Alaska

Dawson from the Lookout

Dawson from the Lookout

ferry and Top of the World Highway from the Lookout

ferry and Top of the World Highway from the Lookout

There are three changes to the Lookout Trail:

1) the trailhead is now clearly marked and easy to find;

2) the Ninth Ave trail follows the Lookout Trail for a spell and then branches off to the left; I’ll need to come back to see how far it goes;

3) the Lookout Trail is slowly being extended up towards the Slide. There was a bit of a trail last year, but now it is obviously being turned into a proper, maintained, trail.

Good job, parks and rec!

Oz was great; curious but not to the point of tugging at his leash and willing to match my pace. I love our dates! πŸ˜€

The S.S. Keno

The S.S. Keno is a paddleboat that hauled cargo up and down the Yukon from the early 1920s to the mid 1950s. When the road to Keno City was built in the ’50s, paddlewheelers fell out of favour. For one thing, they were using wood at such a rate that there was a risk of running out of trees! The completion of the Klondike highway to Dawson City was the nail in the paddlewheelers coffin.

On August 23, 1960, the S.S. Keno began her final journey from Whitehorse to Dawson City where she would be dry docked forever and turned into a museum. Today, she is a National Historic Site.

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the interpreter thought it would be funny to wear a life jacket today :)

the interpreter thought it would be funny to wear a life jacket today πŸ™‚

Laura Berton was the mother of Pierre Berton's mother

Laura Berton was the mother of Pierre Berton’s mother

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I wouldn't have wanted the cabin with the beam running through it!

I wouldn’t have wanted the cabin with the beam running through it!

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My favourite part of the exhibit was the movie! It was filmed in August 1960 and documents the S.S. Keno’s final voyage. It answered one of my most burning questions about the Klondike: how did ships pass through Five Finger Rapids? The movie is also good for comic relief when a man waxes poetically about how much easier life was then compared to the 1920’s since modern technology had brought about DDT and mosquitoes were no longer a problem…

Visiting the S.S. Keno takes about an hour and fills in yet another gap of Dawson’s history.